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It all depends on how many revs you want to turn

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3.55 but in a Dana rear.

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that combo will make short order of that rear.

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i have a selection of a few differnt gears to put in the car
first lil bout the car
weighed 3020 lbs with the 340
been tubbed 4 link,8 point bar
most of the stuff on front is glass
8 3/4 rear may change later
tires are hooiser 31 18.5 15 radial,s
the motor will be a all alum 488 kb hemi blown 14-71 striped mooneyham,injected ,pump gas
goal is 1,000 hp
now back to the gear will be drove around town and really after the stab n stear fun would love to get some daylight under the front but will work on that later
gears are 3.55,3.91,4.10,4.56 heck even some 6.14,s

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I would try the 4.56 ratio first and then make the changes you think will work best, you might as well smoke the Hail out of them big boys on the back and scare the holy crap out of the locals BTW, I would definetly have a Dana 60 being built as soon as possible 40 splines spool and axles would be my choice

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Because of the torque available and low rpm in the lights, I would start with a 3.55 Dana axle. Even if you are shifting into high late, it will still be a better combo based on the trans low gear. I am basing this on the assumption you run a torqueflite? A 3.55 gear times 2.45 low gives you a low gear ratio of 8.69 x over 1000 ft lbs torque, x two for converter torque multiplication. At the hit it will be a monster. Here is the math i get.
1,000 tq x 2 (conv) = 2,000 x 8.69 = 17,395 at the axle x .9 ( driveline loss)= 15665 ft lbs torque at the axle when you crack the throttle. That is almost exactly what I have, and can say it is very hard to hook a 3000 lb car with that much power at the starting line!
When you recalculate the torque at the tire surface on the track -15665 / 16 inch =978 x 12 =11741 foot lbs of thrust (or torque ) between tire and track. That is a bunch. Better have wheelie bars, because the car will be nose heavy,(momentum) and if it sticks the tires and gets off the ground, its going to go as far up as it has room. BTDT.

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this IS A NEW link will answer your questions and keep you busy with plenty formulas

auto formulas tire size and gear charts

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Thanks for the link! Good one.

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the motor will be a all alum 488 kb hemi blown 14-71 striped mooneyham,injected ,
pump gas goal is 1,000 HP

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Technical Support - Mechanical - Fuel Injector Can I run a HILBORN mechanical fuel injector on a street car?



A Hilborn mechanical injector is classified as a constant flow system and was designed to operate at WOT under load. As a constant flow system, pressure and volume are controlled by the main jet, or pill, along with pump speed (engine rpm) and nozzle size. The barrel valve, which controls idle fuel and transitional fuel from idle to WOT, can be compared to a ball valve much like the one that turns off the water in your house. The basic design and lack of fuel control of a barrel valve does not allow us to control the fuel at part throttle especially no load part throttle. If you consider the fact that an engine's fuel requirements are based directly on load, and that we can have many different loads at different rpms all at the same throttle angle, the lack of fuel control for street applications becomes apparent. A mechanical system does not employ enough fuel control in the operating range where you drive your street car and, therefore, is not recommended for street use.

Of course we have all heard the stories of mechanical system working on the street but few if any actually worked correctly. The use of a dial-a-jet, additional bypass valves, and home center ball valves have all been used to provide fuel control for adequate street use, but fall far short of the fuel control required as part throttle load is constantly changing. The constant manual adjustments needed, as one guesses the current fuel requirements of the engine, leaves very little time to actually drive the car and, at best, is incredibly inaccurate. Blown applications appear not to be as affected by the lack of fuel control of mechanical injection, possibly due to the load placed on the engine to drive the blower, but is still not recommended for those looking for the best all around drivability.

The use of alcohol helps because of it's large tune-up window, but fails to provide drivability due to loading up, mileage (in gallons to the mile) and severe oil dilution. Claims from those that run injected engines on stands or dyno's stating they can make mechanical injection streetable, are unable to simulate a fraction of the different part throttle load scenarios your engine will see, nor provide the required fuel control. Interestingly enough, engineers have devised a way to electrically control these valves and bypasses...it's called electronic fuel injection.

NOTE: Our products are not legal for sale or use on emission controlled vehicles.

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if all else fails i have a pair of matched dom. carbs
but that will be when i just flat give up on the inj.

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use carbs . If injection would work without troubles be sure that Hilborn would say so that way they could sell more units.