Hello, is the pick up and reluctor gap for an MP distributor for a 440 supposed to be .008? If this gap was off either too much gap or too little gap what would the symptoms be? Thanks.

the answers are - yes, .008 and sorta no but yes if you're too far off. FYI - https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...amp;Search=true

So from reading the archives if the gap is out it will cause a missfire? Can it cause a popping through the carb at cruise speeds? I have a 440 with a six pack setup with a speed pro cam .480 lift 300 degrees duration that will pop through the carb intermittently at cruise speeds. I have 64 jets in the center carb.

i gonna say it would cause problems more than intermittently. have you look at a plug?

The plugs are new and tan in color, there isn't any oil or fuel fouling.

there is a host of things that could cause an intermittent missfire. cap/wire condition, dizzy wear, over rich or leaned carb and on a 6 pack one of the outboards may not be set right. set your gap at where it should be and try it out. then move on to the next thing to check. you could even have a small vac leak that doesn't rear it's head until cruise speeds. just take your time and rule things out 1 at a time. 1 at a time.

Thanks for the replies. I will recheck the pick up/reluctor gap. I have suspected a lean condition. for some time, and will chase that down next.

I've had occasional problems with the MP distributor in my Charger. The adjustment screw for the air gap will sometimes back out slightly and allow the gap to widen. Under light throttle normal driving, the engine operates fine. From half throttle and to the floor, the engine will buck, sputter and stumble.

I'd toss some 68 or 70 pri jets in there for a 1 hour test to see if you can elim that it's lean (vac leak) & then work on electrical. Sounds simple but might want to start w a compression test. unhook/cap the vac adv for a quick test (rotor phasing) & see if that helps/hurts/no ch. does it do it hot/cold or always

YOU KNOW WHAT IS HARD? try to set the .008 gap on a MP or stock distributor ( same design )

once you set the gap on rest position, aply vacuum to the advance and will note HOW OFF will be the gap.

Reason for this ? THE RATIOUST WHAT MAKES THE PICK UP COIL ADVANCE is not the same than reluctor and won't meeet ever the reluctor circunference. Its imposible being the center of both circunferences are not the same

Some times you'll set the gap correctly and when start up your engine, will note the reluctor being cutting off by the pick up coil.

Trick! by trial and error, bent the pick coil bracket and pick up angle untill get the BEST average gap around on both positions, with vacuum and whitout vacuum being applied.

You can spent 2 days untill get the best setup as posible and not allways is reached out! I just finished to make this job on a SB dist for a buddy, and have done on my BB dist couple of times

measure with every reluctor end, and mill some ones if required

THEN ALSO CHECK how much play and tight pieces can be set around. The magnet force can be even close the gap if pick up baseplate it has lot of play around ( its a floating assembly ). The pivot rivet on pick up coil uses to have lot of play too, what makes this job even more tricky

I also have had to fill the vacuum stud with teflon tape to make a more tight assembly with pick up coil ( on the provision for that ) getting more precision on advance and less play on gap.


WONDERING HOW THE FACTORY MADE TO SET THIS CORRECTLY... were factory units better built than actual replacement parts ?

BTW, the reluctor pin also CENTERS OUT THE RELUCTOR, so usually the 3 reluctor points around this pin will need to be sligthly milled out.

Shaft bushing affects A LOT the gap too, specially on BBs

Nacho I remem when you hipped me to the intricacies of the gap ch from the vac adv & the diff tooth heights about 10 yrs ago

in fact, on the posted thread LOL, just read it about lol

welll it is a new update on a new thread ;D