Great pics.

Trevor

this was great read! only thing i can add is i dont understand the need to weld the connectors to the floors. i can understand why one would want too, but i dont see what it would be necessary. only because on a full chassis car, the frame isnt welded to the floor.

"i dont understand the need to weld the connectors to the floors. i can understand why one would want too, but i dont see what it would be necessary. only because on a full chassis car, the frame isnt welded to the floor."

Full chassis cars are not as stiff as you think.

Thanks Tim. Those are just what I needed. Jeff

Zippy, I had Bears Performance (when they still built chassis's)tie my frame back in 1981. They put 2x3 straight and parrallel/ through the floor (in and back out) in my Volare. They put detail into the fabrication of the tie-throughs (swedging up at the front and pass through tubes welded in nicely for cables). The car was a small block 4 spd at the time and it made an immediate difference. When I installed the 440/automatic a few years later, I'm sure it helped but the superstock springs/shocks were needed to hook hard. The driver side upper windsheild developped a crack and I can't keep paint in the roof to b-pillar seams. I'm sure that the way I beat on a car it would have folded up years ago without that mod. There are over 23 years and 500 plus passes on the tie job. I can still pick up the car from the tie-though.

Todd DesMarais sent me so pics. and I used them to help with my install. I think they were of Zippy's installation. I just finished mine last week. Here are some more pictures. 67 Coronet Just want to add that this is the first time I ever mig welded and I was pretty happy with the results. Just goes to show you that it isn't that hard. The most time saving tool I used was the air body saw that I bought from Harbor Freight for only $20. Made cutting the floors very quick and easy. Right now I'm using it to cut my tubs since I'm also mini tubbing my car. I'm using pics. from Big Block Dart .coms pages. Very informative. I'm glad to have all this info. on this site from all you guys. It makes doing things yourself so much easier. I hope you guys can use my pics. also
rapom

Picture 2

pic.3

pic.4

pic 5

Picture of the 3x5's 1/8in. thick plates welded onto the connectors.

Rapom, Nice job, that it the best way to weld those connectors in, and not a bad weld job at all!!

Great thread!!! Did anyone read the article in MA about the factory style sub frame connectors that e-berg welded in a b-body? Would these be any good for those that don't want to hack the floor pans??

cre,
Check my pics, I didn't cut the floors. used 2x3x0.125x4' rectangular tube, cost less than $20 plus weld wire

Quote:

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Max....do you have any more pics of the installed sub connectors? Maybe one from the side showing the whole length? I plan on putting subs on mine this winter/spring....I'm glad I wont have to cut my new rear pans to install....gotta love the early B's!!!!

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Roger that!, and if I can't find em, I'll take some in the AM, when it gets above freezing! I hate laying on cold concrete\
Max

more (drivers side toward differential
Car's so darn long things get fuzzy at the back end Sorry) Wrong picture too, try this one

This is the only area where the floor pan has a kick up. Would have take a lot of filler for this puppy, so I let it slid. Pasenger side by the forward bench seat mounting bolt. It was then butt welded to the T-Bar cross member.

Max

I read about .083 wall, and now .125 wall thickness. Seems the .083 is the favorite, but what about the .125, why is that not more popular? Because of added weight? Anything else? Thanks.

Here's mine. I used 2x6, cut it to follow the contour of the floor then welded a 3 3/4" flange on it and spot welded the floor to the flange much the same way our trunk floors are attached to the frame. I drilled a 1/2" hole at an angle through the new rail welded in 3/8" steel pipe, cut and ground flat, this is how my emer. brake cable runs through the new rail. I also made torque boxes, did'nt get the fronts in the pictures. still have a little left to do.

I heard the same thing you did Challenger. (.083 and .125) I used .094 thickness and it seemed like it would work well. It was a little thicker than the stock frame which is the reason why I think people go with the .083 thickness.
Thanks for the compliment Whiplash