Quote:

Mine has had the wil-260-6765 7/8" bore master cylinder(these are called high-volume) & the wil-120-6818 .380 thick rotors & 1.75 pistons since the dragster was new and worked fine. When the brakes quit I replaced 1st master cylinder then calipers (both with the same exact parts). I replaced the 3/16th hard line back(that runs through the bottom tube on dragster) to the T that runs a 3/16th hard line(which I checked for for damage) to the other side of the dragster. The steel braided brake lines going to the calipers were the only parts left I could not verify(they did not leak or swell,hoping maybe they were swelled a little on the inside).So I have just replaced them & will bleed the brakes again tonight. The tech. at wilwood said they had never seen a braided brake line fail,that was not my problem. They said before I could have brakes I would have to have a 2lb residual valve. Which I have never had,after it sets for a couple of weeks I have to sometimes pump the pedal once or twice to get it back up but then it stays up. I understand that but my pedal will pump up & feel hard but will still go to the floor. When you have your foot on the pedal that should put more than 2 lbs of pressure and keep the fluid for running back. Unless my master cylinder got weak & I got another new wilwood master cylinder that was weak I am lost.

Anyone have any suggestion feel free to chime in. Wilwood said the steel braided lines I just replaced were not the problem. If after bleeding the brakes this afternoon if that is not the problem,I am back at square one.







I would put the residual valve in... reason is that
the old caliper most likely didnt have the roll back
boots to pull the piston back all the way and the
new ones do... the residual valve would correct that