I received my 12-28 thread repair kit and a QF hollow screw kit.

For those that may be interested:
I removed the carb and then removed the primary bowl, squirter, and air bleeds. Then I drilled out the existing squirter screw threads with a 15/64 bit and went down about 1/2" deep. This allowed the tap to go down deep enough to allow the thread insert to go about one half turn down below the squirter mounting surface. I then broke off the tang and blew out all of the air bleeds and the squirter holes and with the bowl removed, I could shine a flash light into the circuits from the bowl mounting surface and I could look down into the bleeds/squirter hole and see light which helped see if all of the debris was cleaned out.
This was not hard to do and the worst part was having to grind a little bit of the choke plate shaft to allow more room for the 15/64 drill bit to clear.
I would do this again with no second thoughts.

Note: The QF squirter screw takes a 5/32 allen wrench and since mine was a ball end, the wrench "snapped" into the end of the screw so I did not have to use a second hand to keep from losing the screw. I like their "snap-in" design.


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)