12-28 Thread Repair Kit

Where can I buy the 12-28 thread repair kit for the squirter screws?
My local NAPA and Mcmaster Carr only carry the 12-24.

Thanks

Ouch!

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/striped-squirter-hole-holly-carb-146656.html

http://www.allsafetysupplies.com/Recoil-Thread-Repair-Kit-34620-12-28-10pcs-34620_p_5490.html

Generally, if McMaster-Carr doesn't have something like this, you're hosed. I was surprised to find that it even exists.

I spoke with QF and they suggested that I ship the carb back to them for a hourly rate to fix the screw hole due to the pricing of the thread repair kit.
But I would rather fix it myself and just buy the 12-28 kit myself in case of other future issues. I found a company that sells this size and I have ordered the repair kit.
QF said that they add a threaded insert and then they supply a hollow squirter screw with the repair.

Jim,
Thank you for posting the above. It seems that the kit you show is one of the only 12-28 kits available. I ordered one of those kits and I found that the repair kit comes with 10 threads (.32" long), insertion tool and tap. The 15/64" drill bit is not included. I did pay more for mine from another vendor, but it is better than purchasing a new main body for my carb ($220, OUCH).

Next week I will try and fix the front squirter thread. If that goes well, then I might just do the secondary squirter thread too.

Thanks

I received my 12-28 thread repair kit and a QF hollow screw kit.

For those that may be interested:
I removed the carb and then removed the primary bowl, squirter, and air bleeds. Then I drilled out the existing squirter screw threads with a 15/64 bit and went down about 1/2" deep. This allowed the tap to go down deep enough to allow the thread insert to go about one half turn down below the squirter mounting surface. I then broke off the tang and blew out all of the air bleeds and the squirter holes and with the bowl removed, I could shine a flash light into the circuits from the bowl mounting surface and I could look down into the bleeds/squirter hole and see light which helped see if all of the debris was cleaned out.
This was not hard to do and the worst part was having to grind a little bit of the choke plate shaft to allow more room for the 15/64 drill bit to clear.
I would do this again with no second thoughts.

Note: The QF squirter screw takes a 5/32 allen wrench and since mine was a ball end, the wrench "snapped" into the end of the screw so I did not have to use a second hand to keep from losing the screw. I like their "snap-in" design.