I've got a question about the Mopar Performance voltage regulator, the "race only" one, like this http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/300/312/312-P3690732.jpg

I converted to the electronic ignition with that blue "race only" box in the summer and not much after (within a week) had an electrical problem that burned up my IGN 1 wire (the blue wire with the white tracer that runs from the ignition switch to the regulator, and over to the ballast resistor). I fixed the wiring, went through the entire harness, drove the car once sucessfully. Next time I went to take it out the battery was absolutely no good, wouldn't even turn the dome light on with jumpers hooked to it.

I replaced the battery and the next time out I had an overcharging problem (ran almost half to the charge side), accompanied by a surging condition after a while of driving. I was at a stop light and noticed the gauge flickering a little with the turn signal on. Turned on the radio and it went a little lower, still not on the discharged side. Headlights on, it goes a little further. Flashers on and it goes all the way to the discharge side and dies. Fired it back up and got it home. Repeated the same thing in the driveway and got the same result, instant discharge and it died.

Heres my question, is that regulator my problem? I know a guy who runs them on all of his cars, but they are all pre 70 and have the stock, low amp alternators. My car has a dual field (with one field grounded) that is 60 or 65 amps, maybe even 70. I know its well above the stock 37 amp that my car came with (67 B Body).

Last edited by GTX MATT; 01/07/11 11:05 AM.

Now I need to pin those needles, got to feel that heat
Hear my motor screamin while I'm tearin up the street