Mopar Performance Voltage Regulator

I've got a question about the Mopar Performance voltage regulator, the "race only" one, like this http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/300/312/312-P3690732.jpg

I converted to the electronic ignition with that blue "race only" box in the summer and not much after (within a week) had an electrical problem that burned up my IGN 1 wire (the blue wire with the white tracer that runs from the ignition switch to the regulator, and over to the ballast resistor). I fixed the wiring, went through the entire harness, drove the car once sucessfully. Next time I went to take it out the battery was absolutely no good, wouldn't even turn the dome light on with jumpers hooked to it.

I replaced the battery and the next time out I had an overcharging problem (ran almost half to the charge side), accompanied by a surging condition after a while of driving. I was at a stop light and noticed the gauge flickering a little with the turn signal on. Turned on the radio and it went a little lower, still not on the discharged side. Headlights on, it goes a little further. Flashers on and it goes all the way to the discharge side and dies. Fired it back up and got it home. Repeated the same thing in the driveway and got the same result, instant discharge and it died.

Heres my question, is that regulator my problem? I know a guy who runs them on all of his cars, but they are all pre 70 and have the stock, low amp alternators. My car has a dual field (with one field grounded) that is 60 or 65 amps, maybe even 70. I know its well above the stock 37 amp that my car came with (67 B Body).

""I was at a stop light and noticed the gauge flickering a little with the turn signal on. Turned on the radio and it went a little lower, still not on the discharged side. Headlights on, it goes a little further. Flashers on and it goes all the way to the discharge side and dies.""

I just experienced the same thing this past Summer. I had been running the blue regulator for the past couple of years and I did not have much of a problem until this past Summer when I started using the headlights, windshield wipers and such during driving conditions (in the past I usually drive the car during the nice days only. This past Summer I started getting the car ready to drive more often). What I found was that the blue regulator does not allow the voltage to go above the 13.5 or so, it is a constant output unit. So when I was at a stop with the accessories on, the car was not getting enough output to handle the extra load. My car would start missing and then slowly die unless I shut off all of the accessories. I then bought a NAPA replacement regulator and then the car started charging higher than the 13.5 when the extra load was added.

Note: Since then, I added a Powermaster 75A alternator to help out too at idle.

the later kind unit ?

I converted my Ignition system in my 1968 dodge charger hemi car and one time it pegged my amp guage and i had to drive home with the heater on and the headlites on during daylight. Got stopped by police for having my headlites on during daylight and showed policeman my amp guage pegged. the darn thing boiled all the water out of my barrery ruining the paint job underside of the hood. I scrapped the electronic ignition and put back original never having problem again. That blue box mopar regulator is good for keeping spark from the coil up but not any good for body functions. bob horman 708 687 1187

My question to you people is. Why are you running a "Race Only" unit in a street car? It's no wonder your having problems!

I used that blue one for a while. I had issues with two or three of them before I went to the electronic version of the old black box type (69 Road Runner). So far for the last three years, no issues.

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My question to you people is. Why are you running a "Race Only" unit in a street car? It's no wonder your having problems!

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because lot of ppl has reported just right the oposite, good results