Quote:

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I'd spoon both up until they are locked solid then w a slightly bent thin screwdriver push back the tab so you can loosen the adjuster until the wheels are just barely (but completely) free then adj both back tight again until you reach a point where as you by hand spinning the wheel forward you reach a point where you hear but do not feel (it slowing the wheel down) a slight "tick" at ONE point in the circumference of the rotation. this will get each side exactly equal (& adjusted properly)

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Alright I think I got it. I'll have to drive it again to be sure.

I sort of lied that I had replaced ALL the hardware. I did the normal hardare kit but only replaced the cable fo the adjuster and not the spring, lever and adjuster itself.

I pulled the drums back off tonight. Next I had my wife push the pedal while I watched the left brake assembly. I noticed that even with the shoes extended the adjuster cable was not taunt (the one that got pinned under the guide and is now deformed). So after we went to dinner I stopped and picked up adjuster kits for both sides.

When I got home I replaced the adjuster cable, guide, lever, spring and screw. My first test drive didn't go so well, I had little to no braking power. So I put it back in the garage, jacked it up and manually adjusted the brakes per the quote above. I took it for a test drive after. At first it still pulled right, but that went away quickly, after about the third time I hit the brakes. The brakes are ultra sensitive now and I have plenty of pedal, much more than I had before.

I'll try and take it for a drive again tomorrow and I'll post how it acts.

Thanks to everyone who responded.