Quote:


#1 Plymouth Cuda 1970

#2 Daily drive / performance street,

#3 TF727, JW converter 11" 24-2800 stall
3:23 ratio 235/60x15 wheels

#4 Standard Cuda weight (app. 3000 lbs)
Would like strong torque in low end, around
400HP. Emission test max 3,0 CO. Fuel octane 95
no lead. Operating at sea level.
As in my origin question, a complete engine rebuild kit supplemented with high comp. pistons like KB190 or KB107 and cam like XE284H or XE268H
Is a litlle worried about exstreme parts as crank and rods are stock and as been runing unknown miles, (the journals looks fine, though) Looking at the bores it seems to be a low mile engine.
A cylinder service shop adviced me to bore it 20 over and leave the crank untouched.
Budget max 1000$
However I have also noticed the stroker kits offered around 1500$ But this was not my orginal plan, still think pistons and cam change will do.



Thanks for the info. I will look into the parts combination tomorrow on my desktop computer. I'm on my laptop right naw and it has a cracked screen, so it is a PITA to work on.
Here is my initial thoughts:
stock crank and rods will be fine if they pass inspection for straightness and cracks, but the rod bolts will have to be replaced with higher strength rod bolts like those from ARP. You will want to recondition the rods after replacing the rod bolts to make sure the rods big end is round.
You may want to compare the cost of the machine work and rod bolts to the cost of aftermarket rods? I have not looked into comparing the costs, but it is something to consider.
Next, I would get the B&M 360 flexplate and have it and the dampner you use all ballanced so you do not need a specially ballanced torque converter. You did not mention what oil pan the 360 has (hopefully from a car), but a 318/340 oil pan will not fit a 360.

I forgot to ask what exhaust system? I am assuming headers with dual exhausts of 2.25 to 2.50"?

With your gear ratio and tire size (estimated at 26.1" tall), your engine RPM at 60 MPH is only about 2,500 RPM (2494.67 assuming no converter slippage.)
Your gear/tire size/converter look like a decent match for a street car, and if you plan to keep those parts I would recommend an engine built for strong low/midrange torque, and not peak HP which may be well over 5,500 RPM which is really too high a power band for your gearing and converter stall.

You mentioned using stock iron heads? The heads are a big variable making power, and getting the compression and quench right. You say they have 2.02" valve, but what about porting? Do you know how much the heads flow? or at least have the bowls been opened up larger than stock?
You mentioned 62cc's? is this an estimate or actual measurement? Also, if you want to build "quench" with those heads, what is the distance from the head deck to the flat "quench" area of the cylinder head. Keith Black has two Step headed dished pistins that can produce 9.5:1 or greater compression with good quench which may be an idea, but they are sort of a pain to clearance (may require extra machining.)
If you plan to swap the heads in the future to a closed chamber design then you will want a flat top piston design.

I am also thinking of the detonation limits with your pump gas, and the cylinder head type. The open chamber iron heads will have to run at a lower compression ratio than closed chamber aluminum heads, so the heads used are a critical decision in the parts suggested.