I think Racealittle has the best advice. Get the car running first, go out and try it. THEN decide what needs to be changed.

Our 70 RR with a 383 that was REALLY tired (it looked like a crop duster going down the track, 1 quart of oil per tank of gas) ran in the 16's with a 4 speed and a 3.73 sure grip on 225 70 14's

Sent the engine off to DRAM and it started running 14's on the same street tires. Then slicks, and especially practice for the driver, the most important part, it ran in the 13's and eventually got it to a best of 12.56 although usually it was high 12's. Then I tapped a valve a month or so ago and that was it for that 383. Now it is getting a 452, same heads.

Our suspension is pretty much stock. It has the original rear springs, I have clamped them, it seems to help a little. An adjustable pinion snubber might help, but you already have super stock springs so are better off. I assume the front hangers are the extended ones. We have 1" torsion bars on the front, the exact opposite of what is "supposed" to be on there. With our roads I was not comfortable with soft torsion bars, plus the reduced life was something I was not interested in.

With the 8" wide rims you can fit a 28 x 9x15 slick on there no problem. IF you do not plan on using the slicks for anything but the track why waste the money on tires that are DOT legal.

It sounds like shifting at 6000 will get you where you need to be using the first 3 gears.

The dual plane will be fine, that is what we are running, a Performer RPM. If you have clearance issues loosen up the bolts holding the hinge to the inner fender and pull the rear up. You will have to fiddle with the alignment a bit. It will also let heat out that way. Cheap, no permanent mods done. Don't run without an air cleaner.

Dropping the exhaust and adding 18-20" collector extensions when at the track will help, it certainly seemed to help with the 383. It will definitely sound better.

You have a nice looking car! Have fun with it, this isn't world peace or anything.