Most of the 30s cars and trucks have the engine sitting behind the front axle. The Dakota engine sits on top of the front crossmember where the suspension attaches. In most cases, using a Dakota frame under any 30s ride will result in moving the engine rearward and fabing motor mounts on the frame so everything fits. The Dakota frame horns will likely sit outside your 30s grill shell, you will likely end up cutting them off and making new horns to support your rides radiator structure so your fenders and such are properly mounted. The Dakota rad is not going to fit in a 30s grill shell unless you modify it to stand on end, Dakotas are short in hight and wide, 30s stuff has a tall rad that is very narrow. You will also probably want to modify your 30s firewall to accomidate the master/booster and to locate the steering column, the Dakota firewall is not easily going to attach to your body, by the time you get it cut up to fit, you probably could have modified yours easier. The Dakota rack has a "double D" column connection and aftermarket columns and steering componets are easily available. I think the Dakota steering wheels are ugly.

As you see, even one of the better frame swaps is not done without some fabrication skills. If your frame is still in good shape, most times your even or ahead of the game just updating your frame, both in time and money spent. Those of us that have been through this process a few times tend to say some things are easy because we forget what it was like the first time. If it was really easy, everyone would be doing it. Everyone is not doing it, fact is, most people are not doing it. Leads one to the conclusion it must not be easy. There are enough people doing it that at least you know it is doable. Gene