I think i run that same Bullet cam it's .016I/.018E

You know I always try to simplify things so just using "street math" on aluminum heads,

My adjusters are 20 threads per inch so each full turn is.050", So I crank the opposing valve all the way down (IC,EO and IO, EC) to full lift and set my rocker to zero lash on the base circle and mark the adjuster screw at 2:00,

Then I back it off until I get the mark to 12:00 (1/6 of a turn) which corresponds to ~.080 at the pushrod which (assuming 1.5" would correlate to .0125 at the valve), but with a small blocks geometry the true ratio (at best) is 1.45 (probably closer to 1.4) so that's right around .018" HOT and that always comes up right on feeler gauge at the valve, and when I tighten it I can see the 12:00 mark so I know I'm good.

Mopar 59's have horrible geometry to begin with and (IMO) it only makes it worse when you have 2 to 3 threads showing below the rocker. my logic is the further away from the fulcrum point the more the side loading and again, the 59's are already pretty bad geometry to start with so tighter is probably better than looser.

FWIW I like to run the cup type rocker adjusters and use conventional ball -ball or tapered end Comp pushrods as opposed to a cup type pushrod.

I also run the BAM lifters which are really light and they allow for a fairly long straight pushrod as compared to some of the longer body Morels.

The advantage to using a cup screw is you don't have to worry about a pushrod cup digging into the rocker from underneath if you run the threads close.

There's a lot of differing opinions but this way has always worked for me.