Oh the factory oiling system priming the rocker arms headache. I would try to break things down and check step by step. First is to establish if the issue is in the block oiling path up through the rocker support stand. This doesn't sound like your issue but we're checking everything. Or if the issue is in the rocker shafts out to the rocker arms. With rockers still on so you can observe pushrod movement, spin engine until #6 is coming up on the compression stroke, spin through compression until the crank is at TDC on #6. Now take the rocker shafts off. Gently prime the oil pump with drill motor while watching for oil coming up out of the rocker support stand that has the oil feed. Unfortunately, my notes don't mention which (passenger side or driver's side) side is lined up at this position. I would move the crank a few degrees either way to see if oil flow increases as you get the oiling holes exactly aligned. And if you spin the drill fast, oil will shoot through the rocker shaft support and hit the ceiling so spin the drill at low RPM. I would pick a drill RPM that produces good flow up through the rocker stand so you know what type of drill RPM produces decent flow. With a baseline established for oil flow on the first side, spin the crankshaft 270 degrees COUNTERCLOCKWISE to #8 TDC. Spin the priming drill at chosen RPM from testing the other the side and watch for oil flow coming out the rocker shaft support. If all looks good from there, reinstall rocker rocker shafts and prime some more with alignment still intact. See how oil comes out of shaft at each rocker. Spin motor clockwise 270 degrees, prime other rocker shaft and watch of oil flow pattern. If all looks good move on to the next debug step below. I guess that if the cam centerline has not been checked after installation and you are way out, you might not see any oil at either of these alignment positions. Cams for BB Mopar should all be drilled the same position for the oiling passage alignment WRT TDC on #1 as stroke transitions from compression to power stroke. But in my 45 years of Mopardom, I've seen lots of things that don't check out properly so maybe this procedure doesn't work on your specific cam. I've also seen friends trigger lock the drill and zip tie it to the manifold so it won't spin and then turn the motor over slowly watching for the oil gusher out of either side.

Before we get to additional debug on the shafts and rockers, thanks to the guys at Muscle Motors (RIP) for taking the time to walk me through the rocker oiling system cam alignment procedure!

It does concern me that you are seeing good oil flow on the exhaust rockers but not on the intakes. That doesn't make much sense. The oiling holes for the rocker shafts are all in the same location and size so if one rocker is seeing oil coming out from around the shaft, they should all be seeing that same oil flow. Just to double check, when you say no oil to the intake rockers, you're talking about where they locate on the shaft and not if they are squirting on the adjuster. Dribbling on the intake adjuster could definitely be different than squirting on the exhaust lash adjuster especially with offset intake rockers. The only thing I can think of is that the exhaust rockers shaft ID is machined too big on all of them and under light priming oil flow, the exhaust rockers gush all the oil pressure out where the shaft goes through and the properly fitting (tight) intakes don't squirt anything. So check to see how each rocker fits on the shaft. That's the best I can do for you. My guess is that if you step through this debug, you will find an issue somewhere. Good luck and remember that perseverance is what will get you through to the Mopar promised land of good rocker oiling!!

Oh, and quick PSA, I'm sure everyone here on this board knows how important this is but NEVER go under a car that is not properly supported (jack stands). A local kid graduated with a BS in ME from Dayton a week ago. After graduation, he needed to fix some things on his car so he could drive back to Pittsburgh. The car was not properly supported and it fell on him crushing him. His funeral service was held at my church earlier today. I'm in the process of touching base with all the young guys I know to make sure they know this critical rule. Sometimes newbies don't know this rule or think it's ok to work on a car supported by the factory (put the spare on) trunk jack or just a good sturdy rolling jack from one of the suppliers ... this can get you crushed. RIP Ian.


1972 Pro-Street 'Cuda, 500" Eagle stoker B Block, Eddy RPM heads, Victor Manifold, 850 Mighty Demon, Hemi 4 Speed, Dana 60 w/4.88 gears - Built by Hansen Racing Middlesex - NJ