Originally Posted by Nvr4Get911
Originally Posted by Mattax
Maybe needs more power.
There has to be enough current to heat the resistance wire.

My sequence for testing the gages alone when the gage or instrument cluster is removed.
First check each gage for resistance. That will confirm the wire is intact.
I show that here on a 67 Rally panel. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/gauge-cluster-issues-ivr.455893/#post-1972855388

Then I checked each similiar to what you just did but using D-cells.

Finally I check the system semi-live using a car battery with breaker to power the IVR, and 22 ohm resistors in various configurations to represent the three test points for each gage, 10, 23, & 74 Ohms
See this post and the the last one in the thread. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/gauge-cluster-issues-ivr.455893/page-2#post-1972858065

Here's the 1966 Master Tech on Gages
http://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Lit/Master/227/Page01.htm

and the filmstrip
https://youtu.be/mpkrm3QKCjc

There may be an earlier MTSC on gages - ypou can skim through the Imperial Club Collection, mymopars, but the concept will be the same as covered in 1966


I did use 2 AA then 4 AA batteries but no movement. .I will dive into this deeper. Thank you for the insight!.....to be continued....


@Mattax I resd yhe FABO thread and today I was able to put some work in testing and I got just over 20 ohms and both fuel and temperature gauge.
I also figured out I placed the leads on the wrong posts in order to test movement.
At this point I think.I'm good. Time for some reading from Mattax links.
My electrical skills have increased tremendously....thanks!.