Using multimeter to bench test gauger cluster???

I got a 65 Cuda instrument cluster that I would like to bench test. Is there a way to use a multimeter? Tried to put 6v power to Fuel and temp gauges but now movement. Not sure if I'm doing it correct. Search for a videos but couldn't find any using a multimeter. Any insight is appreciated.

That's because you really can't test them with a multimeter other than to verify the coil isn't open. All Mopar gauges use 73 ohm (low) and 10 ohms (high) as the end points of the gauge reading. So you need to connect the return side of the gauge, did you forget the return side, thru each of those resistors to test accuracy of the gauge.

When you mention "resistors" are you referencing the prongs for the wiring harness connection or the two connections from the gauge itself? I tried testing the wiring prong connection and then tried testing two connections seciured to circuit board with pal nuts but could not get a reading of any type using an auto range multimeter.

tape 2 AA batteries in series.
that gives you 3 volts.
I taped leads to the ends and then used aligator clips to clip it to each side of the gauge.
give it a second. if you wired it backwards it won't do anything.
then flip them leads and check again.
it should go to about half way.

Neither,

If the gauge is out of calibration as often is the case as the variable rheostat within the sending unit such as fuel, water temp or oil pressure may be off...
My solution is to use a100 Ohm rheostat with (2) clip leads, connect the rheostat leads in series to 1 side of the gauge...
Now adjust the rheostat to vary the supply DC voltage(5V) to the gauge as to obtain the target value, next using a multimeter measure the value of rheostat setting.
Final step is to add an external 2W resistor in series equal to the measured value of rheostat, so now the gauge will be calibrated.
May sound complicated but actually the practice is quite simple..


Just my $0.02...

Using your advise I got the temp gauge but fuel gauge not moving

Maybe needs more power.
There has to be enough current to heat the resistance wire.

My sequence for testing the gages alone when the gage or instrument cluster is removed.
First check each gage for resistance. That will confirm the wire is intact.
I show that here on a 67 Rally panel. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/gauge-cluster-issues-ivr.455893/#post-1972855388

Then I checked each similiar to what you just did but using D-cells.

Finally I check the system semi-live using a car battery with breaker to power the IVR, and 22 ohm resistors in various configurations to represent the three test points for each gage, 10, 23, & 74 Ohms
See this post and the the last one in the thread. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/gauge-cluster-issues-ivr.455893/page-2#post-1972858065

Here's the 1966 Master Tech on Gages
http://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Lit/Master/227/Page01.htm

and the filmstrip
https://youtu.be/mpkrm3QKCjc

There may be an earlier MTSC on gages - ypou can skim through the Imperial Club Collection, mymopars, but the concept will be the same as covered in 1966

Thanks for posting very interesting...

Just my $0.02...

I did use 2 AA then 4 AA batteries but no movement. .I will dive into this deeper. Thank you for the insight!.....to be continued....

@Mattax I resd yhe FABO thread and today I was able to put some work in testing and I got just over 20 ohms and both fuel and temperature gauge.
I also figured out I placed the leads on the wrong posts in order to test movement.
At this point I think.I'm good. Time for some reading from Mattax links.
My electrical skills have increased tremendously....thanks!.

Glad it is of help.
Getting the right connections is part of the journey. I often copy and colorize or redraw the connectors/panels whatever and have them as reference on the workbench.

With the resistance readings good, at least you know the gages are not burned out.

Its possible D cells can, and the AA batteries can't supply the power needed, even though both have the same voltage.
(The amp-hour ratings on the smaller batteries is lower. )