If you have factory A/C and don't want to re-do all your pulleys and brackets, be aware that in factory A/C applications with dual belts that turn the compressor and the alternator, the alternator sits farther back on the engine compared to non-A/C cars that use a single belt for the alternator.
actually the difference is not like that. True the alt bracket fits different, but more due the A/C compressor bracket which uses the provisions used on non AC cars alt bracket, so the alt bracket for A/C was fit deeper, and also fits behing the front ear of the alt ( diff than non AC where bracket fist in front of alt ), but alt itself remaints practically on same spot. This is so true than you still can use a dual groove pulley alt into a non AC car and belts will match...also backwards
Google "SAE Automotive Wire Chart", and you'll find that you need to use #2 wire with this amperage. I don't remember if your car uses a full-current ammeter or a shunt-operated one, but this much current will fry a full-current ammeter, and likely the wiring. Your best bet would be to run a #2 SGX wire directly from the output stud of the alternator to the positive battery terminal. You might want to bypass the ammeter in the car by putting both wires under one stud.
true about the wire gauge for 130 amps if you were to use those 130 amps, but our cars won't ever require 130 amps, so the wiring must be matched more with the car requirement loads than the alt load capacity itself. Just the starter motor plays on 90-120 amps rate, hence the wire gauge used between batt post and starter motor, but not the rest of the car. But still with a 130 or 150 battery cranking power, you still feed the car with a 12 or 10 gauge wire into the cab. Same than at home you get a 2 or 0 gauge wire into your breaker box from the street but spread it around with 10, 12 or 14 gauge all around depending on the device to feed coming out from breakers, no matter the street load capacity
Shunted operated ammeter began on 75 ( 76 on A Bodies ). I can't tell if earlier on C bodies ?
No need to bypass ammeter if car and accesories are correctly wired and sourced. On ammeter cars NO ONE ACCESORY must be sourced from batt side of the ammeter, Everything must be sourced from alt side. Thhe Battery won't suck ever more than 40 amps if discharged. You can't push in the amperes, so the batt gets its own load recharge process due the chemicals speed.
Throw a wire between alt and batt post will make unusefull the ammeter ( if still present )
