I have a Tuff Stuff 130 amp alternator. It works as advertised.

It doesn't put out as much current at slow speeds as modern alternators, but once you get past idle, it really begins to rock & roll.

If you have factory A/C and don't want to re-do all your pulleys and brackets, be aware that in factory A/C applications with dual belts that turn the compressor and the alternator, the alternator sits farther back on the engine compared to non-A/C cars that use a single belt for the alternator. The back of the alternator is in very close proximity to the passenger side cylinder head in this case. Most other alternators (Denso, GM-based Powermaster 140-amp unit) are too large in the front-to-back dimension to fit there with correct pulley alignment due to cylinder head interference. As far as I know, the Tuff Stuff 130-amp unit is your highest output option without major changes to your belt drive. If you don't have factory A/C, your options open up quite a bit.

Google "SAE Automotive Wire Chart", and you'll find that you need to use #2 wire with this amperage. I don't remember if your car uses a full-current ammeter or a shunt-operated one, but this much current will fry a full-current ammeter, and likely the wiring. Your best bet would be to run a #2 SGX wire directly from the output stud of the alternator to the positive battery terminal. You might want to bypass the ammeter in the car by putting both wires under one stud.