Based on your timeline for the leak, make sure you are checking fluid level in neutral if it is a valve body that charges the converter in neutral. Some race valve bodies don’t.
If you are not sure then check it in gear. If the fluid is high it will leak out the pump vent. I see you moved the vent but did you plug the original?
As for leak disgnosisi, once the leaks start it’s pretty hard to determine where it’s coming from.
I would start by cleaning the front of the converter then get some carb or brake clean and clean the bell housing the best you can and let it dry overnight. Make sure the back of the converter is clean and dry too.
Start it up and see if a leak develops.
Fluid leakage out of the bell but dry converter is either the pump seal, vent, pump bolts. The large perimeter seal can leak too but that’s usually low man on the totem pole.
Wet back side of the converter could be a closure weld (where the two halves of the converter are welded together), cracked impeller hub, and remotely possible but a bad pump seal from a spun pump bushing.
Front of the converter would likely be the pilot to the crank, not very common.
How did you check the converter for leaks. Only time tested method is to pressurize it under water.
Yes, the front vent was plugged when moved to the rear.
The converter is dry but lots of fluid around the input seal, pump seal, and pump bolts.
I just finished pressure checking the converter (up to 30psi) and found no cracks or leaks.
One thing I do notice is the converter snout has some uneven wear. Not sure if this is normal or not?
I guess next step is to pull the pump and replace the bushing and all the seals?
What is acceptable amount of wear on the converter snout before it needs to be reworked?
