Originally Posted By Cab_Burge
Don't fix something that is not broke tsk
There is a reason for the problem on your crankshaft, you need to figure EXACTLY what caused it then fix THAT up scope twocents
Please let us know what you find and how much thrust clearance you have with the new crankshaft and new center main bearing wrench thumbs
Increasing the width of the thrust surface on the center main bearing will only add additional wear surface, not stop the wearing work scope
I shoot for between .004 and .010, sometimes up to .012 luck
If less or more then have the problem corrected, bad bearing or thrust surface on the crank scope


I dont know if it is good or bad but I am definitely not the only person that has had problems.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...ailure-440.html

I think I had 3 things that contributed to my failure and my plan is to address all 3.

1) Plain thrust bearing face.

2) Rough on the thrust face of the crank. When the crank is machined it leaves "star burst" lines radiating outward. Very difficult to polish

3) Excessive clutch pressure (4 speeds). The heavier the clutch, the more pressure needs to be exerted to release it. This force pushes the crank forward against the rear thrust surface. I try not to start my car with my foot on the clutch because there is 0 oil pressure but I have done it out of habit.


The 1st item I plan on changing to a bearing with thrust pads and oil grooves. I have see other forum members and engine build books grind reliefs for extra oiling before the bearings were available.

The 2nd issue will be addressed before installing my new crank.

The 3rd issue is going to be addressed by installing a 3qt accusump connected to the ignition and I am going to have to make it a point to not start it with the clutch engaged or extended periods with the clutch engaged.