Well, my clutch had 211K on it, and the disc measured .308", the p plate had more wear on the fingers than the friction side, same as the flywheel. Barely any hot spots and no cracks or checking. The t/o bearing was a little grumbly, but the real culprit and the cause of all my issues was....the lousy pilot bearing. There has to be a better solution than letting the input shaft of the trans ride directly on the needle bearings of the pilot bearing. Mine ran dry and ground themselves into chunks, which near as I can tell were getting jammed against the input shaft and causing it to spin even with the clutch pressed in. All I really needed was a new pilot bearing and a t/o bearing and that stock Luk clutch setup would probably have gone another 200K. But I had all new stuff so it went it.

And as far as spreading the frame, totally not necessary. The key is to get the top edge of the crossmember higher than the top edge of the frame rail. Definitely need to pull the trans mount and the plate it bolts to in order to do it, but once I got the crossmember high enough it practically fell into place. No doubt they are assembled at the factory that way, with the crossmember going in from the top, not the bottom.