Unless something is severely under powered, I personally don't ever see the need to use the lower hole. I think it's better to get the bar as stiff as possible, as quickly as possible... and use the shock to control the hit.
GY3... when you say shock settings are at 7, do you mean 7 clicks from full tight? What front shocks do you have on it? In the 60ft range you're in, I would definitely move to the upper hole.
I suggest moving to the upper hole and continue to click the shocks tighter 2 clicks at a time. The car will pick up 60ft as you do it until it gets to a point where it spins. Then back them off 1 click. That will get you close...
From there it's a balance of rear shock setting and front shock setting to optimize further.
You seem to have a ton of knowledge on this subject. My car I just put together with no real adjustments. Ran 1.12 1.13 last year. I added maybe another half a thousand horsepower this year and I can't get it off the line. Same shock settings, they spray fresh glue for me and drag the track, I leave with only 2 degrees of total timing, bringing it up to 3 degrees in .6 seconds. I have been told the hit is just way to hard, caltrac bar is about parallel with the ground. I have been thinking today maybe lowering it to the bottom hole to slow down that first motion. It will probably point downward. I seen you say all the fastest cars use top.....I have Santuff' on the rear, but have been told "The shock adjustment won't affect the initial" Please help if you can
