I will throw my 2-cents in here, for whatever it's worth.

a. I have run into this exact same issue with the "over center movement" of the clutch pedal where the correct adjustment is right at that "pivot point"...annoying.

b. If you're sure the clutch is adjusted how you like it at that point, then you could always rig up a longer "upper bump stop" to hold it down where you want it.

c. I personally prefer the clutch pedal as low as I can get it while still allowing enough pressure plate movement to go into 1st/reverse and not letting the throwout bearing drag on the clutch fingers....it's best for drag racing in my opinion.

d. You can adjust the pedal quite a bit up or down and the clutch will function just fine for daily driving.

e. Even with a 2-piece scattershield (Lakewood anyway), you can't access the pressure plate/disk to measure the separation, so 2-piece vs. 1-piece makes no difference.

f. Having all the bushings, clips, bushings in the z-bar linkage in place & greased is very important. I recommend the metal "1/2-ball" that replaces the rubber bushing in the release fork.

g. Just in general (probably doesn't apply here), if everything looks good, but the clutch still acts way off, then it may be the release fork church-key type spring or somehow the throwout bearing slipped off the fork.

Hope some of this helps somebody here