Throttle screws all the way in?
I thought that was resolved.


Heh. You actually wrote that in an earlier post and I forgot. Sorry. FWIW On a stock diameter damper, I liked the Mopar Performance tape. It goes all the way around, and is black with white lettering making it easy to read.

I assume you understood what I meant when I wrote 'use a screw driver'. Its a small PIA but sometimes easier than finding a good helper. Depending on the air cleaner base, you might have to use a short screw driver or check the timing with the air cleaner off.
- To make it easier, set your notebook or clip board up with the Timing and RPM columns before hand.
- Get the low rpm when the engine is warmed up and reduce the engine speed to the lowest rpm it will run well enough you can read timing. Then turn the idle stop screw in a little and write down the rpm and timing. Repeat until the timing stops advancing.

This important because tuning an aftermarket carb requires the timing curve has to be pretty close to what the engine wants. Timing and fuel ratio go hand in glove because the a leaner less dense mixture in the cylinder will burn slower.

I suggested looking up the stock timing specs because that's a baseline reference we know works. If the engine in your car originally had emmissions controls that are now removed, then an earlier timing curve may be a better reference.

Another reference point are the Direct Connection recommendations. Total mechanical for a B or RB motor:
38 degrees at 2600 to 2800 rpm for production and stage I-V iron heads.
(Instruction Sheet DCF-194, Mopar Performance Electronic Ignition Kit. p6)

My guesses are that
a) sluggish mid to high rpm is due to insufficient timing above 3000 rpm.
b) the change you feel with more the 16 degrees at idle may be due to the strong vacuum signal from the stock cam. Try driving it without the vacuum advance (cap the ported vac or golf tee in the hose) and see if it feels different.

As the timing gets closer to what the engine wants, the carb can be tuned to match. It will likely take a few iterations.

Getting the idle and low rpm cruising tuned is the most difficult part. Doing it first is the best way to approach tuning because the 'idle circuit' takes fuel from the main circuit and also provides an airbleed to the main when the throttles open.

A few questions:
What is the Holley List number?
Is the intake stock or aftermarket?
Were there any emmissions systems besides PCV?