Thanks for the info, I've seen a few of those articles before, and they are part of the reason I started going down the small block road instead of my original thought of putting a big block in it. I plugged some numbers into some drag racing calculators, and it looks like if my Dart currently weighs 3500 pounds with me in it, it's probably making 275 hp. It's all steel, full interior, roll bar, frame connectors, always ran through the mufflers. Getting to 10.00 @ 135 mph would take 670 hp, call it 700 hp to be safe. Sounds like a ported set of W2's could possibly get me to 550 hp on a 426" SB. Add a 150 shot of nitrous to hit the low 10's?
Or bite the bullet and pay up for some CNC ported W9's and everything that goes along with them. Might still go that route.
I realize that it's not going to be cheap, just trying to maximize bang for the buck.
Now, if you are ready to embrace a small shot of nitrous, all becomes right in the world! My 10.39-128 best on Drag Week turned into 9.65-138 this year with a small shot though a plate system.
Never messed with nitrous before, but I'm open to trying it. Just didn't want to try and nitrous my way into the 10's with that 360 that's in there now.
I bought the R block because I wanted a solid foundation to build from, and the 48 degree version seemed like it would be a good idea if I want to run a roller cam. A friend of a friend was racing an Aspen with a 340, and he broke a bunch of blocks and ended up getting out of racing. New R block, never been used for a grand, I figured what the hell, figure out the heads later.
I don't know much about the Gen III Hemi, but I'm open to checking that out too. I could always just sell the R block.
I have a set of Indy 440-SR's I got a good deal on, but I was going to put those on a 440 for my '68 Charger R/T. I got the matching TTI headers for a B/E body with them. If they were EZ's with A-body headers we'd be having a whole different conversation I think.
