ign: you want the jumper from the batt to be at the blue wire (upstream) end of the ballast. wouldnt hurt to have an addit'l jumper from batt to downstream (blue/brown wire end) of ballast & remove it when it fires but likely you can get it to fire as is by going thru the ballast. have the dampener at 15BTDC with magnet dead even with the reluctor tooth with rotor under the #1 dist cap plug wire location. make a mark on the dampener 2&1/4" CW from the TDC slit & have your dist man set it to that at ~2500RPM when it fires or 35 if you have a dialback. read "breakin secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com shop fan in front of rad. helper to add trans fluid. helper to spot leaks. helper to man dist. any issue shut it down without thinking about it/fix the problem/restart it/continue with the rest of the 25 minute time period. prime the bowls till the FP shoots a stream & pump 3 or 4 good shots. batt charged. Fuel: I'd prefer a large can hooked to pump inlet (enough capacity to last 30 minutes). inner springs out. vac adv capped. good zinc breakin oil. you in the drivers seat to start it/watch gauges/shout orders. almost forgot, thermostat OUT. short version: want it to start immed/get RPM up/goose throttle many many times/watch your helpers for any signs of trouble.shut it down ASAP if needed. you have thousands of $$$/dozens of hours into it & the breakin is critical & you have 1 shot to get it right. Holler how it goes. dont get in a rush on any check.