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It's a known fact that the radius on the 'source cranks are bigger than they should be and the accepted by the mASSES fix has always been to scrape for clearance.

I used the Clevite bearings on a low deck Eagle crank and they didn't need to be scraped for clearance ???



It's a known fact that those who acquire their engine building experience via a keyboard instead of a wrench are often mistaken.

The issue of main bearings contacting the radius is almost always due to where the engine block locating tangs position the bearings rather than the crankshaft radius.

When the blocks were machined at the factory, very little attention was given to positioning the locating tangs at the exactly correct position. The factory cranks had no radius, so there was a ton of room in there, and it didn't matter.

So, if you get a block where the tangs are shifted to one side (which is very common), and you are using a crank with a large radius (which is necessary for the strength of the crankshaft) there can be some interference with the radius.

While the uneducated or inexperienced instantly blames the crankshaft, in reality the crankshaft has nothing to do with the problem.

We've attached a picture, so anyone can easily see what we are explaining. In this particular case, the bearing was heavily shifted toward the right side of the picture, by nearly a quarter inch. With a factory crank, it did not cause a problem. With a radiused crank, now you have a problem. Name brand of the crank has nothing to do with it.

Our cranks have an eighth inch (.125") radius, no larger, no smaller.





If this were the case.. how would you get the crank
into the block.. the thrust bearing #3 has what..
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