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How many stock blocks, money wise, does it take to bore, hone, align hone, square deck, etc, before you could have bought a good block to start with

Do the aftermarket blocks come ready to go?




They need to be machined as well, atleast I know most do...and it seems some have their own problems that need correcting also (not BBM in specific, just in general), which is part of the reason I am hesitant to ever want to use one...Lots of coin to buy, then more to machine, and possibly more to fix "problems" that when you are paying the money they command new, you shouldn't have to pay to fix...Thats just my opinion though


ANY block needs to checked. I build a lot of motors of all brands and use mostly aftermarket blocks. All these "problems" that people speak of............well I guess I have been lucky, as I haven't needed to do anything other than normal machining procedures on any of them. And also I guess it also has to do with what people consider problems. On a Mega-Block, you have to do some grinding to make a Jesel belt drive clear and also some grinding to clear some aftermarket oil pumps. Not sure I consider that a problem, just something that has to be done. But still, whatever machining is required is cheaper on one block than two or three.

As far as stock blocks, some of you guys must have way better luck than me. I usually have to go through several before I find one I would even be willing to use. I find the core shift to be very bad and the cylinders get way too thin on the major thrust side even before boring. Admittedly though, I am VERY picky about what I will use. It took me 4 blocks to find a 360 block I would use on my daily driver Challenger motor and it doesn't make 450hp.........LOL!!!........If it is not the cylinder bores, it's the lifter bores. Very erratic castings

Monte




They make pill for that lol

Monte sorry you have such bad luck
We had a 400/451 block together for well over 10 years of racing
No concrete no girdle otb rpm heads running 9.80. In 3200# car on alcohol, trans break
With just normal refresh with no abnormal wear
We have a 500 cu 440 source kit running low 10. Teens / twentys in a 3700 #
Car with trans break
Its been together for several years
No we do not do all that core shift bla bla fancey stuff
Im running a 437 out of a 383 been together 3 years running 10.30 in 3000#
Car i can step it up run in the 9 but im happy where im at and the combo i have
We have a 474 ohio crank kit in a 4000# car now running 10.50 been together a few
Years now no issues
So it can be done on stock blocks be as reliable as anything out there
Trick i truely believe is in the engine builder and balancer job given
And keeping operator error out