Guys are giving you vague suggestions.
You need to have the timing set first, about 35 degrees total to possibly 38 degrees.
That is a total all in by 2500 without vacuum advance. With vacuum around 45 to 50.

The 750 double pumper is a bit much for an automatic with your cam and gearing.
A 650 DP would be better but don't throw out what you have.
Set floats correctly first, front just under hole where you have to shake car slightly to drip out. Rear a tad (and I mean a tad) higher.
Power Valve is determined by the engine vacuum.
Car fully warm IN GEAR (brakes set and tires blocked)with a vacuum gauge hooked up adjust idle screws to highest vacuum reading. let's just say the highest steadiest is 18". Half that # and add .5 to it so in that case 9.5 is the optimum PV for the set up. In this case a PV with say 11 tamped on it would be too rich and a PV with a 4.5 on it would be too lean. The # stamped on them is the vacuum opening value.
Jetting is determined by power test runs or dyno.
I'd look up what Holley lists your 4779-? as stock jetting and go up or down two sizes with much testing.
Squirter and accelerator cam/position is determined by throttle response.

Also many people don't know how to properly set the accelerator pump arm clearance which can either produce and off idle stumble or tear the diaphragm. With engine off holding throttle fully open you need to measure with a feeler gauge the clearance between the pump arm and the pump lever.

3 hands make this easier to do, OK so throttle is held at WOT and use something like a small open end to push pump arm down fully, now measure the clearance between that pump arm and pump lever.
I like using 8 thousands but any thing between 1 th to 15 th is good.
You just want to make sure there is a small clearance to not tear accelerator pump gasket. I've seen carbs. with 1/8" clearance and guy's wonder why does my car POP or stumble when I rev it.

Hope this helps
Ron