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Hate for this to turn into a hijacking of a good thread. But can not let the info go with out a question or 2.

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Tony,

You have to use the trans-brake to stop the input/output shaft from rotating, just as you would use a clutch to put a manual tranny in gear. In the Lenco's case, the reverser is the mechanical part of the unit as the slider gear/shaft has to mesh with main drive coming out of the forward Lenco units. Impossible if the unit is rotating. I'm assuming a Liberty is a straight gear unit like a conventional manual tranny so the same would apply. I've had a few snags with mine, most of which I attribute to buying a used piece, but pretty well have everything straigtened out. Two major problems, one was having the apply piston pushrod jumping out of the detent on the apply band and cocking the band on the drum, burning the band up. Its a little tricky but I was able to secure the band enough in my end mill to plunge cut about .150" deeper detent, havn't had any more issues there. I suppose a carefully applied die grinder with a small rounded tip could do the same thing, possibly better. Other problem, I was having trouble with the electric solenoid that plunges the teflon poppet solenoid to seal the air system that applies the brake. Turns out my little 4-wheeler battery didn't have enough amperage to give the solenoid what it needed to seal 200+ pounds of air pressure consistently, a problem that usually reared its ugly head in the staging lanes. Bigger battery, problem solved, seems simple fix now, just wished I could have figured it out sooner, would still have most of my hair......



Thanks for that heads up on the snags. Always good to know who has blazed the path before I start down the same path blind...

The Bruno I picked up was used but came out of a running car and had no issues. So I hope I do not have to play the die grinder/end mill game. That and the Liberty is new so I can hope that the only issues I have are that I need to change the input shaft on the Liberty from 32 to 6, cheaper than changing the bruno to 32 from 6($1400 vs restocking fee on the shafts about $20). Then the pilot on the new input shaft did not fit the pilot bushing/bearing in the bruno... Those are the only issues I have see so far. The motor I am running will have an alt and big battery so I am not worried about the air.


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I have a Bruno/Liberty Extreme in my car for about 3 years now.
It works flawlessly,much less parasitic loss than a Lenco.

Yes, you must use the trans brake to put the Liberty in gear,just like stepping on the clutch.

Bruno Drive fluid temps will scare you(275+) but are not a durability issue,just change the fluid often.Other than that,pretty simple.




How often do you change the fluid? Does the trans come out of gear when you let off the gas? Any issues getting the car out of gear after the burnout?



I change the fluid even 15-20 passes depending on how hot it got and for how long.I use John Deere hydrostatic fluid and check the color,I change it when it starts to darken.
Yes,the trans neutrals when you lift off the throttle,it's designed that way,you must stop and apply the trans brake to get it back in gear.Driving around the pits you must keep your hand on the shifter holding it in gear or it will pop out.
No problem with the burnout,when you lift and roll out of the burnout it will neutral by itself or you can move the shifter.
I do the burnout in direct (5th) gear,get it up on the tire for 4 seconds and release the lineloc,let it roll out as I'm slowly lifting off the throttle until I feel it grab and then close the throttle and let the car roll a little,stop,hit the trans brake,put it in first and stage the car.This sounds like a lot but,it only takes about 2 car length's to do.Or you can put it in 1st and shift all the way thru across the line and give them a big ole' smokey John Force burnout!!! LOL