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Nothing in the rules ( as far as I know ) about how many pieces you use in construction. I had to shorten my halo, so it is actually made up of 3 pieces. Installed it first. Then the down bars.



Crizila, I think your halo bar won't pass NHRA tech due to it being cut and butt-welded, if that's what I'm seeing in the pic. It would have to have a sleeve over that joint, fully welded on the edges and rosette welds thru. This is from General Regulations 4:4 Frames - "All butt welds must have visible reinforcement (i.e., sleeve and rosette welds)."

Also on the questions about interrupting the roof bars with the dash bar, there is a complicated section that I think basically says the dash bar needs to be upgraded to 1-1/2" or have a lot of gussets:

For Sportsman full-bodied cars that require a roll cage (7.50 seconds and slower, including cars inspected to SFI 25.4 or 25.5): If the windshield/roof bars are interrupted by the dash bar, then either the entire dash bar must be minimum 1 1/2-inch x .058-inch CM(.118-inch MS) or the entire dash bar must be minimum 1 1/4-inch x .058-inch CM (.118-inch MS) and must be braced with gussets to
both the upper and lower sections of each windshield/roof bar. The gussets may be either 1.75-inch x 1.75-inch x .110-inch (with one 1/2-inch-diameter and two 5/16-inch-diameter holes maximum) 4130 CM or MS plate (triangle shaped) or 3/4-inch x.049-inch CM(.118-inch MS) tubing at least 4 inches long. An interrupted windshield/roof bar is defined as one that has been completely severed into upper and lower sections/pieces and then the sections/pieces are welded to the dash bar.

4.4 applies to frames, no roll bars. 4.10 has to do with roll bars, and there is no mention of butt welding in that section. My butt welds are V'ed all the way to the inner diameter of the tubing for full weld penetration. No doubt in my mind they are every bit as strong as the tubing. I'm not worried about it - ether from a safety or passing tech aspect.

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