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On any big duration cams, esepcially solid roller grinds, start by watching the valve reatiners and rotate the motor over in the standard direction, when the exhaust valve just starts to open set the intake lash. Once that is done rotate the motor over until the intake valve opens all the way and starts to close and then set the exhaust lash. Do one cylinder at a time and do one side at a time, make sure to do it when the motor is warmed up if the cam card calls for setting the lash hot I do start at the front and work my way back on one side and then do the other, sometimes you may need to run the motor bewteen sides to keep heat in it, especially the first few times you use this method

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THE ONLY WAY IT SHOULD BE DONE WITH A GOOD SIZE CAM!

PERIOD!

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Not necessarilly so. My cam is 276/284 @ .050 .454 lobe lift and a 1.6 rocker. The problem I found with that method is there is pressure on the rocker shaft and the camshaft when adjusting that way. I'm not saying it doesn't work but I found .002 difference in lash that way. I checked with the intake off and the MP chart is on the base circle using that procedure. The other way could be as much as 20 degrees difference and the lifter doesn't look like it's on the base circle. The other downside is you can't keep an accurate record that way. You could be off who knows how many degrees using that method. With the MP method you know you are on the same spot on the cam lobe everytime.

I got nothing on Cab BTW, he's a great guy and set up my valve springs, we just differ on the way to set the valve clearance.

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