Moparts

valve adjustment

Posted By: Otherlane

valve adjustment - 11/20/11 05:00 PM

How do you guys adjustment your rockers on a sb?
Posted By: rickraw

Re: valve adjustment - 11/20/11 06:16 PM

hyd or solids?? i set my solids about .05 tighter than my cam card says. stay safe. cya.
Posted By: Otherlane

Re: valve adjustment - 11/20/11 07:12 PM

Solid roller guess I'm asking that I set the valve lash #1 at tdc than what?
Posted By: Cab_Burge

Re: valve adjustment - 11/20/11 07:42 PM

On any big duration cams, esepcially solid roller grinds, start by watching the valve reatiners and rotate the motor over in the standard direction, when the exhaust valve just starts to open set the intake lash. Once that is done rotate the motor over until the intake valve opens all the way and starts to close and then set the exhaust lash. Do one cylinder at a time and do one side at a time, make sure to do it when the motor is warmed up if the cam card calls for setting the lash hot I do start at the front and work my way back on one side and then do the other, sometimes you may need to run the motor bewteen sides to keep heat in it, especially the first few times you use this method
Posted By: Otherlane

Re: valve adjustment - 11/21/11 11:58 AM

thanks for the info
Posted By: Guitar Jones

Re: valve adjustment - 11/21/11 12:24 PM

I prefer to use the eight position Mopar Performance decal procedure. This way with an accurately marked balancer and setting it on the line exactly everytime I can keep records of the adjustments and clearances. I can spot trouble faster that way.

Also I initially adjust them cold, warm the engine fully then adjust an int and exh on each side. Allow the engine to cool overnight and recheck those cylinders to get the cold spec. Now I don't have to have the engine hot to check and set valves.
Posted By: Otherlane

Re: valve adjustment - 11/21/11 01:29 PM

I printed the mopar chat last night so i will be doing the valve that way.
Posted By: MRMOPAR622

Re: valve adjustment - 11/21/11 04:45 PM

I set mine the way Mr Cab does. I have found that works best for me. The 1st time I set mine with the engine temp @ 175-180 most of the time and set #1 intake and exhaust and fast as I can and let it set over night and check #1 cold and use the cold setting from then on after warming the engine and making sure the lash is right HOT. With aluminum heads and block that's about the only way you can set them and get them all the same.
Posted By: Otherlane

Re: valve adjustment - 11/22/11 02:03 PM

I think i will do it like Mr cab said,thanks
Posted By: Biginchmopar

Re: valve adjustment - 11/23/11 12:26 AM

Quote:

On any big duration cams, esepcially solid roller grinds, start by watching the valve reatiners and rotate the motor over in the standard direction, when the exhaust valve just starts to open set the intake lash. Once that is done rotate the motor over until the intake valve opens all the way and starts to close and then set the exhaust lash. Do one cylinder at a time and do one side at a time, make sure to do it when the motor is warmed up if the cam card calls for setting the lash hot I do start at the front and work my way back on one side and then do the other, sometimes you may need to run the motor bewteen sides to keep heat in it, especially the first few times you use this method




THE ONLY WAY IT SHOULD BE DONE WITH A GOOD SIZE CAM!

PERIOD!

Posted By: Guitar Jones

Re: valve adjustment - 11/23/11 01:11 AM

Quote:

Quote:

On any big duration cams, esepcially solid roller grinds, start by watching the valve reatiners and rotate the motor over in the standard direction, when the exhaust valve just starts to open set the intake lash. Once that is done rotate the motor over until the intake valve opens all the way and starts to close and then set the exhaust lash. Do one cylinder at a time and do one side at a time, make sure to do it when the motor is warmed up if the cam card calls for setting the lash hot I do start at the front and work my way back on one side and then do the other, sometimes you may need to run the motor bewteen sides to keep heat in it, especially the first few times you use this method




THE ONLY WAY IT SHOULD BE DONE WITH A GOOD SIZE CAM!

PERIOD!







Not necessarilly so. My cam is 276/284 @ .050 .454 lobe lift and a 1.6 rocker. The problem I found with that method is there is pressure on the rocker shaft and the camshaft when adjusting that way. I'm not saying it doesn't work but I found .002 difference in lash that way. I checked with the intake off and the MP chart is on the base circle using that procedure. The other way could be as much as 20 degrees difference and the lifter doesn't look like it's on the base circle. The other downside is you can't keep an accurate record that way. You could be off who knows how many degrees using that method. With the MP method you know you are on the same spot on the cam lobe everytime.

I got nothing on Cab BTW, he's a great guy and set up my valve springs, we just differ on the way to set the valve clearance.
Posted By: Super Scamp

Re: valve adjustment - 11/23/11 01:26 AM

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

On any big duration cams, esepcially solid roller grinds, start by watching the valve reatiners and rotate the motor over in the standard direction, when the exhaust valve just starts to open set the intake lash. Once that is done rotate the motor over until the intake valve opens all the way and starts to close and then set the exhaust lash. Do one cylinder at a time and do one side at a time, make sure to do it when the motor is warmed up if the cam card calls for setting the lash hot I do start at the front and work my way back on one side and then do the other, sometimes you may need to run the motor bewteen sides to keep heat in it, especially the first few times you use this method




THE ONLY WAY IT SHOULD BE DONE WITH A GOOD SIZE CAM!

PERIOD!







Not necessarilly so. My cam is 276/284 @ .050 .454 lobe lift and a 1.6 rocker. The problem I found with that method is there is pressure on the rocker shaft and the camshaft when adjusting that way. I'm not saying it doesn't work but I found .002 difference in lash that way. I checked with the intake off and the MP chart is on the base circle using that procedure. The other way could be as much as 20 degrees difference and the lifter doesn't look like it's on the base circle. The other downside is you can't keep an accurate record that way. You could be off who knows how many degrees using that method. With the MP method you know you are on the same spot on the cam lobe everytime.

I got nothing on Cab BTW, he's a great guy and set up my valve springs, we just differ on the way to set the valve clearance.





I use the Cab way and it works for the tight TD setup 440-1 the cups hold that tight angle well..

Attached picture 6931802-lily011.JPG
Posted By: Anonymous

Re: valve adjustment - 11/23/11 01:45 AM

Do it Cabs way and you are fine but....These modern crazy lobed over scienced grinds are not done like the old days--they can be downright odd as to where the actual low spot is. Do a modern roller grind by the Cab method,,,keep turning , keep turning and all of a sudden you are way loose! Well..question is..set it there or just call that the "runway" for valve opening? Do two engines a day for as long as I have and you start thinking cam grinders are nuts.
After all is said and done any engine set by the method that Cab explains so well will be FINE. These days with aluminum heads and rockers of all types, crazy grinds etc I like to set valves hot and the not care the least about where they are cold ( because it will be different) and guessing which way and how much thay move is well...a moving target.
© 2024 Moparts Forums