Part II
Adjustments
You should not need much side to side adjustment in your sliding panel. If so, just loosen the front bracket and rear bracket bolts, adjust, then tighten.

The height of front and rear is where you will typically need some adjustments.
To adjust the front, loosen the two bolts. Turn the round knob to adjust up or down.
Then tighten. This works fine on mine and the height holds.



For the rear height you go back to the rear brackets.
See that bolt behind the spring tab? You want to loosen that slightly. Put your sliding panel at the height you want, then tighten.



When you raise or lower the sliding panel to match the roof height, it position changes on that hinged slider bar. You can only tighten a little bolt like this so much. But for me the position is only temporary.



I can get perfect alignment.
But between slamming doors, etc. it will not stay. Just not enough oomph left in the bolts or adjusting tab anymore.




Some say it is impossible for these to leak, because of the hose and pan system. Well, I guarantee you in a hard, windy rain, if you can't get better adjustment than this, you WILL get water in your car that is not caught by the pan and drained out the hoses.

You CAN, if like me no headliner, put little blocks between the rear of the sliding panel and pan to hold the alignment. It will still leak some, as designed. A little leaking like that should be caught by the pan and drained out the hoses. But what if your hoses are clogged? That's why they make air compressors, blow them out or snake them with something or replace them. What if you are parked on a bad slope. The seal between the pan and roof is not that spectacular. It could leak between the pan, roof, and seal if tipped over on a slope.

ALSO, look at the screws here.

The front ones are holding on the cable cover and covering up the gear. The side ones are part of your tracks (cables running parallel to line of screws).



See where they come out through the roof?



Even though they would be covered by a foam insulating pad and a headliner in a finished car,



you know water will get through them unless you use some sort of thread sealant.
Or maybe someone put in the wrong length screws at some point in the cars past, because mine go through the foam even and you know that means through the headliner possibly.



My car has to live outside.

Even if you get perfect adjustment for closing the sliding panel (I don't), have good draining hoses (I do) and a solid pan without holes (I do), and perfect, non-reproduced weather stripping (I don't) you WILL get some leaking around the sliding panel into the pan. For some of you, this may stay in the pan and go out the hoses .

(another issue for later, they do not actually exit the car, just go behind your kick panels up front and by your rear wheel behind the lower rear interior panels in the back- tell me that is not begging for issues long term)





For some of us (ME) I have gotten a decent puddle behind the passenger seat, and behind the driver's seat parked in another location.

These cars should REALLY be indoor cars.

That not being the case for me and for some of you-
possibilities are:
car cover
strips of those flexible magnet sheets along the sliding panel / roof border
a 36" by 48" magnet sheet would cover the whole thing
etc.