that is a nasty splice.
continuity won't be the issue. it will be resistance causing the voltage drop.
but it sounds like it is past that splice anyway.
you probably don't have the extra line in that splice, but the old school way was to put ring connectors on them and put it on the big cable side of the starter relay. but I guess leave it alone if it ain't broke.

in the second picture on the R side I note several corroded male terminals. Those should all be cleaned as well as the others.
There's a couple that are a bit "hazy" but aren't corroded... They look much dirtier in the picture but are not that bad or preventing good current! There's only one connector there that's corroded! It's green and you can clearly see it in the picture. That connector goes to the 'transmission backup lamp switch'. The other two 'hazy' male terminals are for the 'high beam foot dimmer switch' and 'hazard warning flasher'... I doubt they have anything to do with the overcharging issue... Despite what they look like in the picture or in person they make good contact! Regardless, I didn't take the time on those terminals because they're not associated with the issue... At least I don't think they are!

Quote

I checked the voltage of the wire in the bulkhead running from the splice with the key ON and it reads 11.3v(firewall side) while the battery reads 12.6v... The voltage of the same wire at the bulkhead on the inside with the key ON reads the same (11.3v)!

the above statement is not clear to me ? I'm assuming this is with the bulkhead plugged together?
I am also assuming this wire is coming from the battery towards the splice
What is the V at the splice itself ?
if it is also 11.3 work back towards to battery.
Your statement indicates a 1.3V drop which is HUGE unless there is a draw pulling the V down or a bad connection not allowing the current to pass thereby causing the V drop.
Yes, with the bulkhead assembled... As instructed I followed the power wires from the VR and they run into the splice! Out of the 8 wires in the splice only one runs directly into the bulkhead and that's the one I'm referring to(J10A-14RE in the diagram)... From the splice directly to the bulkhead not the battery... That wire runs through the bulkhead into the ignition switch harness where it goes directly to the ignition and is identified as the 'ignition' circuit but it also splits off at the connector and goes down to the number 5 fuse of the fuse block and keeps going into the instrument cluster.
I checked the voltage of that circuit on both sides of the bulkhead connector and the voltage is the same on each side which to me indicates the connection in the bulkhead is making good contact. If it wasn't making good contact one side would have a different voltage right? Could it be something in the cluster drawing voltage??? Could this be the issue??
I hope that clears it up!



Run a jumper across the two connections and see what the voltage does. The jumper can run from the splice to where ever the firewall side wire goes. If it goes multiple places the one closest to the BH would be best.
DO monitor the battery voltage while doing these tests. [quote]

I agree, voltage the same on both sides of the connector means it isn't that connector.
it could be the ignition switch, as you noted due to the voltage drop there.
I would see if the switch has any resistance between the terminals disconnected from power.
you also might pull the neutral safety from the starter relay and test the voltage in start and see if that is down too.

Watch video 1 VIDEO 1

pay particular attention around 4-6 minutes where he demonstrates little resistance but that is with no load and the commentary that follows.

video #2 VIDEO 2

this is a very simplified example to locate voltage drops. There are more videos on you tube

i would start at the battery. Using you're schematic follow the Voltage from the battery checking EACH connection along the way.

the + battery cable carries the V to the Starter motor lug. Sometimes a separate wire off the battery carries the ACC /RUN/lights etc to the starter relay. other cases the wire comes from the starter motor lug .

There is normally a fusible link between the relay and bulkhead connector.

out of the bulkhead to one side of the ammeter

out the other side to your Splice.
out of the splice to the various components some of which are live all the time (lights) others through the ignition switch. MOST but not all will go through the fuse box.
This is difficult at best but Tenacity will win.

I alos wanted to comment on the bulkhead connections. on the male tabs some are visibly making connection evidenced by the female terminal scrape marks. others are not showing those marks that I could see

I alos wanted to comment on the bulkhead connections. on the male tabs some are visibly making connection evidenced by the female terminal scrape marks. others are not showing those marks that I could see

I agree, voltage the same on both sides of the connector means it isn't that connector.
it could be the ignition switch, as you noted due to the voltage drop there.
I would see if the switch has any resistance between the terminals disconnected from power.
you also might pull the neutral safety from the starter relay and test the voltage in start and see if that is down too.

sorry, that is actually a few things at once.

pull the neutral safety wire from the relay to prevent the starter from trying to start the van.

the switch has a plug on it, so you can do 1 of 2 things.
you should be able to stick the probe in the back of it, but if you can't, then pull the plug slightly so you can get a probe between the switch and the plug.
so the test will be to see between a ground not on the switch and the ign 1, ign 2, and the other post that goes out what the power drop is if any before you turn the key and after.
so I don't remember the posts that goes out to the bulk head.
but you have start and run on the ignition switch.
both have power going into them.
when you turn the key to start, and hold it, you should be able to test the power out of the switch. same when you leave it in run.

having the neutral safety disconnected prevents you from hanging the starter on the whole time.