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Re: Anti-Swaybar theory. Quick Lesson please. E-body. [Re: Kern Dog] #1180659
02/20/12 10:01 AM
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EV2DEMON Offline
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Which gets back to what I originally said, a sway bar should be used as a tuning device once the car is properly sprung.

A car in corner will still want to compress the outside suspension as a result of weight transfer. The sway bar doesn't magically undo the laws of physics, so the body will still want to roll to the outside as well. When that happens, the sway bar no longer allows the inside suspension to sag (or, at least not as much). When the inside suspension can't droop, the inside tire is unloaded.

The only reason that a sway bar makes a car appear to run flatter is that when one corner is compressed, the other is forced to compress as well. To what degree depends on the sway bar, but ultimately it results in the inside tire unloading.

That is why spring rate is ultimately a better way to control body roll.

Re: Anti-Swaybar theory. Quick Lesson please. E-body. [Re: EV2DEMON] #1180660
02/21/12 12:26 AM
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Thanks, this is the discussion I was looking for.
Some things I learned;(correct me if I'm wrong)
The front anti sway bar acts like a torsion bar from one lower control arm to the other.
The front bar prevents the outside tire/body, from diving too much, while lifting the inside tire at the same time.
A front bar tries to prevent body roll but will actually cause one of the front tires to break free of the road surface during understeer, and a rear bar could cause a rear tire to loose traction during oversteer.
Front sway bars are available as a bolt on after market part.

EV2DEMON, tell me more about "spring rate". How does that apply to me with front shocks/torsion bars and rear shocks/leaf springs?

Re: Anti-Swaybar theory. Quick Lesson please. E-body. [Re: cudabitten] #1180661
02/21/12 08:37 AM
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I have found that the rear bar needs to have some adjustabilty to get the car to handle [read rotate] properly. Think different material end link bushings and how much tension on the end link bolts. This is for every car, but if you have no testing grounds like a road course or deserted highway in the mountains it's hard to determine if you have arrived at the point of max rotation.

Re: Anti-Swaybar theory. Quick Lesson please. E-body. [Re: cudabitten] #1180662
02/21/12 10:38 AM
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Mattax Offline
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Quote:


The front anti sway bar acts like a torsion bar from one lower control arm to the other.



yes. and its's attached to the chassis at the K frame. Rear bar is same idea.

Quote:

The front bar prevents the outside tire/body, from diving too much, while lifting the inside tire at the same time.



Basicly yes. Simplest description is that it helps fight body roll. That's not usually described as 'dive', but it sounds like you have the concept. Rear bar does the same thing but on the rear.

Quote:

A front bar tries to prevent body roll but will actually cause one of the front tires to break free of the road surface during understeer, and a rear bar could cause a rear tire to loose traction during oversteer.



You're mixing things here.
Understeer: When a vehicle doesn't turn even though you're turning the steering wheel. Plough.
Oversteer: When the when the vehicle turns more than you think it ought to. Begins a 180.
A Sway bar will increase the load on the outside tire and reduce the load on the inside tire. This will reduce overall grip when the tires are already near their limit of grip. However, this is often ofset by things like better tire geometry in relation to the road. For street use, you are not driving at the limit, and the car will feel more stable and predictable.
Too big of a front bar in relation to the rest will result in noticible understeer.
Too big of a rear bar in relation to the rest will result in noticible oversteer. If you get into an oversteer situation on the street, especially on wet, downhill or curve, you're pretty much guareteed at least 180 into the curb or ditch.

Quote:

Front sway bars are available as a bolt on after market part.



Yes. But there is some variety to how they address the attachment to the control arm. There also is variety in bar diameter. You want a diameter that is the in the ballpark of the rest of the package.

Re: Anti-Swaybar theory. Quick Lesson please. E-body. [Re: cudabitten] #1180663
02/21/12 11:38 AM
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Quote:

EV2DEMON, tell me more about "spring rate". How does that apply to me with front shocks/torsion bars and rear shocks/leaf springs?




A spring is a spring is a spring. The car doesn't care that it has torsion bars on one end and leaf springs at the other. For all intents and purposes, they both do the same thing. Shocks are dampers that have no effect on spring rate, though spring rate will determine what shocks to use.

Sway bars can be used to limit body roll, but a sway bar big enough to make a stock sprung car corner flat will lead to excessive understeer, even more than what the car was originally built with. By increasing spring rate (stiffer torsion bars in this case) to limit body roll/suspension compression, the sway bars can be used to tune under/oversteer based on the rest of the combination.

Now, obviously a classic Mopar has it's limits and will never be a Viper, but by matching components (springs, shocks, sway bars, alignment...) you can end up with a reasonably neutral driving car that will hold it's own against many more modern rides.

Original E-body Sway bar packages [Re: Mattax] #1180664
02/21/12 11:49 AM
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Below are roughly what the factory offered in the better handling packages
for the e-bodies. These can serve as reference points.

'Cuda with rear sway bar:
0.90 T-bar (111 lbs/in)
0.94" front anti-sway bar
0.75" rear anti-sway bar
Heavy Duty rear springs with 4.5 Leaf (132 lbs/in )

Although non-rear sway bar package seems to have been more common:
0.90 T-bars
0.88 front anti-sway bar
heady duty rear leafs.

A slightly larger t-bar came on Hemi 'cudas and maybe other options.
A stiffer 150 pound/in rear spring came on Hemi and maybe other options
A .88 T-bar and 115 lbs/in leafs came on 2 barrel 383s

Someone who is into restoration will know exactly the options and what came with what. But this should give you some idea of what you're aiming for. Most important, if you stiffen the rear with more spring rate or rear sway bar, you definately want to increase the front t-bars and sway bar at the same time. You pretty much can't go wrong increasing the front t-bars to .90 -1". But if you're staying with smaller t-bars than that, be conservative on the front anti-sway bar.

edit: Fixed decimal places!! See AMX's post below

Last edited by Mattax; 02/21/12 10:47 PM.
Re: Anti-Swaybar theory. Quick Lesson please. E-body. [Re: cudabitten] #1180665
02/21/12 02:16 PM
02/21/12 02:16 PM
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These guys have given you good info.

There is an easy way to think about (anti-)sway bars.

They are indeed a spring running side to side. Being springs, they don't want to be twisted. They want both sides of the suspension to be at the same height.
If you compress one side and they try to compress the other side to match.
Pull one side down and they will try to pull the other side down.

As for how they affect handling, think of them as tightening up the other end of the car.
The front bar makes the rear tires bite harder. Rear tires don't turn so you're going to go straight.
The rear bar makes the front tires bite harder. Front tires turn so you're going to turn too much.

Too much of either bar can cause trouble. it's all about balance.


We are brothers and sisters doing time on the planet for better or worse. I'll take the better, if you don't mind.
- Stu Harmon
Re: Original E-body Sway bar packages [Re: Mattax] #1180666
02/21/12 03:00 PM
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Acually that would be the following;

.940"

not .094" front anti-sway bar. .094" is about the dia of 7 strands of red hair.

.750"

not .075" - same thing as above

.880"

not .088" - same as above

Gotta watch those decimal point placements.



Tom

"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."

-Henry David Thoreau

Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths

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Re: Original E-body Sway bar packages [Re: amxautox] #1180667
02/21/12 03:46 PM
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not to hijack the OP - but if adding a stock rear sway bar setup from say a 340 cuda to my 440-6 cuda (which I was planning on doing) would I benefit on increasing the torsion bar size from .940 to say a 1"? My friend put 1" torsion bar on his 440-6 Challenger and the front end seems very very stable - actually quite comfortable driving wise - would there be a noticable change on front sway bar diameter increase or would rear sway bar, larger t-bar and stock size front sway bar suffice - car is only street and highway driven - looking to make as safe and comfortable as can be - thanks, Joe.

Re: Original E-body Sway bar packages [Re: shakerjoe] #1180668
02/21/12 05:58 PM
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Treat it like tuning an engine. Only make one change at a time unless everything's blown up or used up.

Many times you can find what you're looking for without throwing thousands of dollars worth of parts at the car.

What do you want?
Firmer ride with less squish to the suspension? Go for T-bars.
Ride is fine but you don't want to lean? Go for sway bars.
Ride and roll are okay but you want less bounce? Go for shocks.

Take a step here then a step there until you get where you want to be.


We are brothers and sisters doing time on the planet for better or worse. I'll take the better, if you don't mind.
- Stu Harmon
Re: Original E-body Sway bar packages [Re: feets] #1180669
02/21/12 06:52 PM
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Here’s something that I don’t think has been mentioned yet. I feel a bit nervous mentioning it amongst some obviously experienced and knowledgable people, however I read it somewhere, either in Martin’s book or Puhn’s book, and it kinda stuck in my brain.

As the car leans thru a turn, a solid-rear-axle car (or is it a leaf-sprung car???) will actually experience some dynamics where the inside of the car experiences a shorter wheelbase as it rises, the outside of the car shows a longer wheelbase, so the rear axle starts to point slightly toward the outside of the turn. The rear axle ends up steering the opposite direction of the turn. A rear swaybar will help reduce that.

The more I think about it, a leaf-sprung car should theoretically exhibit that worse than a coil/trailing arm system because the change of arch in the leaves changes the length also.

Re: Anti-Swaybar theory. Quick Lesson please. E-body. [Re: cudabitten] #1180670
02/21/12 07:04 PM
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Pretty much everything covered -- well! --above. Just my 2¢...understeer is reduced with speed, and any oversteer increases. For the 99%, you want enough understeer so that there's always some. Yes, a neutral or slightly tail-happy car can be loads of fun (and fast) if you have the skill (and runoff room...), but for general use, as I said...

Rick

Re: Original E-body Sway bar packages [Re: Fury Fan] #1180671
02/21/12 07:05 PM
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Leaf spring car as the leaf will 'bow' more on the inside as the weight is taken off, same as when you jack up the rear of the car with the floor jack under the center of the pumpkin/differential/ rearend, the leafs will bow and pull the rearend forwards a little, and yes it is a measurable amount. As the front of the springs are bolted to a non-moving anchor.

That will still occur with an anti-sway bar as the links will still allow that shift as the link bushings will 'pivot' in their holes and the link will move forwards and rearwards somewhat.


Tom

"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."

-Henry David Thoreau

Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths

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Re: Original E-body Sway bar packages [Re: amxautox] #1180672
02/21/12 07:08 PM
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Quote:

Leaf spring car as the leaf will 'bow' more on the inside as the weight is taken off, same as when you jack up the rear of the car with the floor jack under the center of the pumpkin/differential/ rearend, the leafs will bow and pull the rearend forwards a little, and yes it is a measurable amount. As the front of the springs are bolted to a non-moving anchor.

That will still occur with an anti-sway bar as the links will still allow that shift as the link bushings will 'pivot' in their holes and the link will move forwards and rearwards somewhat.



But the rear swaybar should reduce lean on the rear of the car and reduce that phenomenon, no?

Re: Original E-body Sway bar packages [Re: Fury Fan] #1180673
02/21/12 07:11 PM
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Quote:

Quote:

Leaf spring car as the leaf will 'bow' more on the inside as the weight is taken off, same as when you jack up the rear of the car with the floor jack under the center of the pumpkin/differential/ rearend, the leafs will bow and pull the rearend forwards a little, and yes it is a measurable amount. As the front of the springs are bolted to a non-moving anchor.

That will still occur with an anti-sway bar as the links will still allow that shift as the link bushings will 'pivot' in their holes and the link will move forwards and rearwards somewhat.



But the rear swaybar should reduce lean on the rear of the car and reduce that phenomenon, no?


MAYBE a little, but I wouldn't count on it as the strength of the flat large spring is greater then the hardness and friction of the link bushings pivoting in the hole in the ends of the bar and around the link shaft.


Tom

"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."

-Henry David Thoreau

Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths

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Re: Original E-body Sway bar packages [Re: amxautox] #1180674
02/21/12 07:28 PM
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Yes I can see where it could/would be reduced as the bar twists, and the links/bar/bar arms try to hold up the that end of the rearend, but I can't see it being eliminated.

Gotta think about these things sometimes while visualising what can happen.


Tom

"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."

-Henry David Thoreau

Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths

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now Leaf Springs and rear axle steer [Re: Fury Fan] #1180675
02/21/12 10:44 PM
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Re: Leaf Springs and rear axle 'steer'
Although pretty well answered, the steer of the axle can be changed. For passenger cars, Chrysler set the springs up flat at normal ride height so the rear tracks in on a turn. You may find this MTCS pamphlet from 1968 interesting. http://www.imperialclub.org/Repair/Lit/Master/253/Page02.htm

Probably should start a new thread on leaf spring suspensions...

Re: now Leaf Springs and rear axle steer [Re: Mattax] #1180676
02/21/12 11:41 PM
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VERY interesting read. Thankyou for posting that.


Tom

"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."

-Henry David Thoreau

Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths

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Re: now Leaf Springs and rear axle steer [Re: Mattax] #1180677
02/23/12 10:52 AM
02/23/12 10:52 AM
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A lot of easy to read info there Mattax.
Thanks.
U-joint angularity, slip angles, etc...Thats why even as a young driver back in the day, I always left things "stock" on my cars right down to the hub caps.

Re: now Leaf Springs and rear axle steer [Re: cudabitten] #1180678
02/23/12 03:22 PM
02/23/12 03:22 PM
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Mattax Offline
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Your welcome.
There's a lot of good stuff in the MTSC series. It was written mostly for the Chrysler dealership techs.

The e-bodies have a lot going for them. Structurally they've got good shape and safety features the earlier cars didn't have. Wide track, leafs angled in, fairly low CG and roll for a production car. They can be a bit nose heavy compared to a similarly powered a-body, but other than that, they're a good basis for sports driving.

Your bit of wisdom on sticking with stock is one it took me a while to discover. Starting with stock, you have a good baseline. On my Barracuda I didn't and that made things really hard as I had no good refernce pints for a long time.

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