Best combo for 600 HP Street Strip Car?

Wanting to see what combo people would use for street strip 600 hp big block. shift around 6000-6500 rpm,

400 or 440 base?
Heads?
cam?
Who's Crank/stroke?
Who's Rods?
Who's pistons/Compression?

This would be for a dragweek car.

My suggestion would be:
10:1-10.5:1 505, TF heads, small street roller cam.

If I were building it for my own use, since I like doing my own heads......I'd use Indy EZ's.

Actually...... If I were going to build it right now...... I'd use what I have on hand......
Which is a low deck 511 rotating assy with flat tops, and some 84cc E Street heads.

You can easily get to the pump gas 600-650hp mark with a bb stroker many different ways.

I need your part collection , sell it to me for a great price, will be there this weekend

Thanks for reply

Either a 400 or a 440 block will get you there so I'd use whatever fits the best. A 400 based 470 with TF will easily make 600 hp. In a 440 block I'd most likely use a 505 kit although you really don't need that many inches to make 600 hp. The 505 is just a really nice combo that goes together fairly trouble free.

My Cuda has about 620hp at the flywheel, runs mid-10s on pump 91, would love to run DW, did run the Drag Weekend they had.
Mine is a 440 block, Eagle 4.15 crank, Eagle stock length rods,10.5 compression, Indy SR heads that I've had for almost 20 years, .607/.601 lift solid roller, Indy single plane, 950HP Holley, MSD ignition, 2" primary headers, old school Top Ten Shootout 3" Flowmasters that haven't been made for 10 years or more.
Car weighs a little over 3800 w/me in it, 4.56 gear, 727 with too tight of a convertor, 295/65 drag radial.

My dragweek car spun #6 rod bearing last friday.
440 stock stroke, ported iron heads, 590 mopar cam, crane 1.5 roller rockers. Running 10.9 in decent air.
Will get pistons out in the next couple days suppose to be 10.5/1 compression. Stock rods.

Engine had a lot of passes on it and I of refreshed it. The big surprised was the block is filled with hard block. So now trying to decide my best option and more power

Do have a stock 400 "56k mile" sitting on engine stand.

Take that 400 lock and have it sonic tested, if it has no less than .160 cylinder wall thickness now on both the major and minor thrust surface use it to make a 505 to 512 C.I. pump gas stroker
My first 505 C.I. 400 stroker motor made 612 HP at 5500 RPM and 544 Ft lbs. torque at 4500 RPM with a set of midly ported 906 iron heads with 2.14 intake and 1.81 exhaust valves. they barely flowed 266 CFM at .600 lift I used a low deck six pak with a set of 1970 OEM 440 carbs. and a big Comp Cams soldi roller that was 260 @.050 on the intake and 266 @ .050 on the exhaust with 1.6 rocker ratio.
On your deal the same short block with a better set of new aluminum heads and a good single plane intake would make 650 HP easy with the same compression ratio on pump gas

Just plug a 493/505 rotating assy into that block..... You should be good to go.

Who rotating assembly is recommended? My time frame will be tight dragweek sneaks up quick.

For that power level, it hardly matters.

Just use name brand stuff and you should be fine

Looking more for who has the best machine work. Get blocked prepped and just bolt together and race.

I'd look at Molnar for crank and rods.

I've found it's kind of a crap shoot no matter what you get.

I guess if I was trying to stack the odds in my favor I'd use a Molnar crank and rods(but I'd still have them checked).
If Icon had a piston that would work for you, that would be my choice.
If they didn't....... Then any reputable brand that had what you needed.

here is a good piston spreadsheet, might have some CH pistons that will work for your application.

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/bb/BBM_Stroker_Pistons.html

Will finish tear down and weigh my final options.


Thanks for link

Ditto...That is our combo...512 based 440 with EZ1 heads on pump gas with a 440 Source kit...Went 9.70 last week...10.8:1 roller cam...

For best machine work give BEST Machine a call in Detroit.

It is hard to argue against the 400 based 512 cube combo, but consider a 440 at .030 or .060 over with a 4.5 stroke crank. That adds up to a 535 or 540 cubes.
With standard size port aluminum heads it is an absolute low rpm, high torque, 600+ hp monster.

We are getting ready to put our 400/512 in...Basically the same combo from 440 source but with light weight crank in a 400 block.

We are hoping for a 9.59 with it....We will see. Can't wait to see if we hit 140mph with it. I was super impressed when we went 138.5 the other week with the 440/512....We have seven seasons on that and its due for a good freshen up or I may sell it and build an all aluminum low deck 512...We really like this and the 440/526 combo from 440 source. They make a ton of torque.

Engine tear down showed the 440 block was already .060 over had L2266 pistons . Cylinders had some scuffing, dropped it off at machine shop this afternoon to have them check the bore. Hopefully it was originally tight and they can hone it for now.

Still leaning towards a new stroker.

Best otb heads would trick flow 240 be my best option?
Can crane 1.5 rocker arms work on them?

For those of you building these 500-540 cube strokers..... are you guys running main girdles and billet caps? Or can a 600HP stroker street engine last with stock main caps? Thanks

Not a 500+ cube motor but stock caps at 470 ci for 15+ years past 7000 rpm's a LOT......And stock 413 off-set ground crank at 3.900 stroke.........

Molnar 4.25 crank and rods with Mahle pistons.

My 505 practically fell together and has been trouble free for 4,000 + street miles and lots of dragstrip passes.

My combo is very mild and easy to live with and runs on the cheapest pump swill out there.

My 496/400 block dynoed at 592 HP with relativity mild FT cam and ported Edelbrock heads. Steel main caps and studs. I have worked with the 600 HP max on a stock block guideline and beefed the bottom end a bit for insurance. It has held up well with road track beating and street miles.

IMHO It is all about reciprocating weight and rpm combined. I haven't the math skills to figure the difference, but A motor built with very long 7.10 rods, light forged pistons, 2.200 or 2.100 rod bearings, limited to 5500 rpm will easily hit 600 hp and have no problem with stock caps, and most likely puts less stress on the stock caps than a stock shortblock seeing 6,000 rpm. I have pushed a 4.5 stroke stock 6pak rod motor to 6200 and didn't have any problems till I drove over part of the crank; it was cracked when we built the motor five years earlier. Another stock rod 3.75 stroke motor saw continuous 6500 rpm use with those boat anchor forged replacement pistons, which are about half again as heavy as good light weight forgings now days.

And it runs very good. My combo is a 493 and its a basic simple combo. I used the 440 block in case I ever decide to use a crossram. I did not use a girdle as I use ARM main studs and billet steel caps since its a street car thats a driver 99% of the time. I used the 440Source kit with the 4.15 crank. A solid flat tappet custom grind cam from Dwayne Porter and Indy EZ heads also from Dwayne. I run the Indy dual plane intake and a 850 Holley DP. My guess is it makes around 575 to 600 flywheel hp as its pushed my 3725 lb 63 to 10 70's. Its been together since 2011 and still going strong. I love it as I run 92 pump in it all the time as its 10.6 comp and its a nice simple low maintnance combo. I usually even drive it to the track and do not change anything at the track. Same timing and jetting just bleed the tires and have fun. Good luck on yours whichever combo you go with. Ron

On mine, yes we run a girdle and stock caps. We try to limit rpm to 6400ish

7 years running on the 440/512 now, and trouble free...Fastest pass was two weeks ago, 9.70 on pump gas....Just pulled it from the car, and getting ready to put in my 400/512....Hoping for a 9.59 out of it...

What does the car weigh?

I have a 400/511 source kit with standard port s/r's, Solid FT (porter spec'd), 4.10 gear, six pack, & pump gas. Car weighs right at 4g with me in it and has been 10.92 @ 123.5 through the mufflers. 69 runner. Drive it anywhere. It's a great combo. Should be a bit north of 600hp.

Mine is one of the smaller displacement engines here, it is a pump gas 451 low deck that I did most detail work on and assembled myself with rpm heads, .630 roller from Porter Racing Heads, victor intake, 1000 demon 4150 carb, 2" headers through 3.5" X pipe exhaust. LSM in Waterford MI did all the machine work for me. It makes just shy of 500 at the wheels on a dynojet @ 6250 rpm, and runs 123 in the quarter mile in street trim. I've had it mothballed a long time and only recently got it back out again.

My .02 on the OP's current block.

I can't see myself buying a stroker rotating assy to put in a well used .060 over block.

If the crank is fixable with just grinding undersize, that's what I'd do, replace the one rod..... Reassemble and go.
If the crank is junk, get another stock one and have it ground.

You'll be back to where you were for relatively cheap money, and then the pressure will be off to get the stroker done, so you can take your time with it and do it right.

Originally I wanted to grind the crank and put it back together. The hard block was a surprise and the 60 over was a surprise.

Machine shop just called and the piston to wall clearance is loose .007 and still needs honed.

So now the decisions begin.

Try and track down a good 440 block, or start with the 400 sitting in the garage.
400 block requires new intake and distributor.

They offered a competitive price on eagle stroker kit, and said right now they could get a block thru the shop in around a week.

The 400 main webs are a lot stronger than any stock RB block
I've broken and seen a lot of RB blocks with cracks in the main webbing, not so in any 400 block, yet
If your going to shoot for the moon later on the 400 build replace the stock main caps with either ductile iron Milidon or some brand of aluminum main caps and good main studs
Good luck

Just be sure to UT that 400 block before you start. 400 blocks will often have one hole that needs a sleeve, while the rest of the block is fine.
That's worth doing. Build the biggest shortblock you can and on a 400 block I'd be happy with a 4.25" stroke/6.535 Chevy rod/1.32 comp ht. piston. It's a standard combo, many here are running them. The 2.200/0.990 crank journal and pin size save some room, also reduce cost.

R.

The low deck 511 is a very nice combo, just have to look at your goals, and then the head selection/header availability to meet the target.

I would do a low deck if I were to start over from scratch. In fact, I have a 400 and B intake waiting in the wings...

It is amazing to me how different some of our combos are yet a lot of us are in the 121-124mph range...

Just trying to figure out how much I want (or how much I have)to spend.

Anyone want to donate some aluminum heads

Starting to lean on tearing apart the 400 in the garage see what shape its really in. then going with the eagle stroker kit.

Then figure out what intake.

I'm not sure what the current low deck offerings from Eagle are, but they didn't used to sell a 511 low deck rotating assy.

I think the car is 2800ish and I am 240

Plus and minus to the 440 or 400 block combo.

My preferred engine: The 383/400 block engine is overall less wide and less tall. This means actual room for your hands and socket/ratchet to change spark plugs on the passenger side. Also gives you more hood clearance, which is great. 383/400 block also weighs less, and the 400 block has stronger main webbing as mentioned. More room for header clearance. I personally think they look better also, more compact. Downside, intake selection has less choices, but enough to get the job done. No max wedge crossram, unless you run stage 6 mopar heads.

The 440 block engine has the most selection for intake manifolds, and is probably a little easier to build. However the 440 has downsides: block main webbing is not as strong, heavier, wider, taller, less clearance to work on the passenger side spark plugs (really non existent for #2, 4 cylinders). The crappy clearance issues for the spark plugs/headers, and less hood clearance using a 440 block is enough to really consider building a 383/400 based engine in my book. Note: Small block mopars have awesome spark plug access, way smaller overall size, weight...worth considering a 408 stroker type build.

I personally have based 440 based engine 505 stroker, flywheel dyno'd 620 HP @ 5900 / 620 torque @ 4800, 4.25 stroke/7.1 Rod, Keith Black forged flat top pistons, A&A max wedge cross ram with two 600 cfm Edelbrock carbs, Edelbrock RPM heads, CNC ported by Modern Cylinder Head, Bullet solid flat tappet cam 259/263 @ 0.050, nearly .600 lift, 108 centerline, BHJ balancer, TTI 2 inch headers, 10.5 compression. Never run down the quarter but its super fun and fast enough. Will run on pump gas but likes 100 or 110 leaded octane better with more advance like 35 degrees. 4:10 Dana, with A-1 4800 stall 8 inch converter, and Pro-Trans full manual 727. Installed in my 1964 Plymouth Savoy, street legal and driven often. Yes...I hate changing the spark plugs on the passenger side.

Eagle offers a 498 kit should be more then enough for my combination. Plan on running what was on the 440. 590 cam, some ported 452 heads, crane roller rockers. Would love to get some trick flow 240.

What would be a good low deck intake for this combo?


Just tore down the 400 everything looked good. Anyone need any stock 400 parts lol

Trick Flow makes the best low deck standard port intake so if you're going with the 400 block that is what I'd run. It is fairly tall so you might need a hood scoop of some sort.

If you build the short block for the 240 heads then it will be easier to switch down the road. The compression will be a little low with the 452 heads but you can drive it like that for a year or so and then when you have the money you can bolt on the 240 heads and be ready to go.

Please check the weights of the kits you are looking at - as alluded in other posts - the lighter the internals, the better it will survive. Eagle parts are not lightweight unless marketed that way

6.535 sized molinar rods vs eagle 736g vs 805g
Icon/source/diamond have the lightest "cheap" forged pistons
source have a "lightweight" (4lbs less off 69-70lbs)4.25 crank for 900 vs 750 for a std one

Intake - your going to hear Edelbrock performer RPM allot

Trying to keep everything on time and in budget is the biggest goal.
Plan on shifting at 6000 rpm will talk to machine shop this morning and see if they have other options besides eagle.

Car already has a good size scoop.

Don't fall into the dual-plane craziness.............

The trans stall is to high and eliminates any theoretical advantage of a dual plane.

Summit single plane intake pricing

Weiand team G $270
Victor 300.60
Torker 303.52
Trick Flow 349.97

Not sure how they really stack up. Will have to research more.

Anything but the Team G.

Especially on low decks.............

Team G is garbage on a RB also!!!!!
The only thing there good for is the scrap pile.

I'm with Andy on this one.

Get the TF.

IMO, the only TG that was worth anything was the RB 4500 version.

The low deck 4500 version wasn't too bad if you welded up the bolt reliefs in the 4 inner runners and ported that area to get rid if the choke point.

Those were crazy restricting for sure but after that extra work how'd to get the bolts in............They were stupid tight as cast.........

Probably had to use a small allen head bolt, or something similar.

I run a 440 source 505 , 4.25 stroke 7.1 rod .
11.0:1 . 272@050 solid flat tappet , .600 lift .
In my Satellite has gone 10.53s and over 126mph best so far . So around 615 flywheel hp .But this does run a 5000 stall and 4.1 gear . This is my daily that I also bracket race .
I went Dougs 2"headers - way better plug access over the 1 7/8 hookers .
I have Source CNC heads by Modern .
Has only been running since January but no issues other than getting the 4150 carb right .
I shift at 6000 trap 66/6700 , 28"radial slick
There would be more hp in a roller cam , better heads and a 4500 carb but I am happy

Tex

I think it's a "secret"............

I guess I didn't realize it needed an answer.

In my case, I didn't have the recesses in the outside of the runners filled in completely in the area directly adjacent to the bolts.

I did a little clearancing around the bolt area and test fit the intake and made sure I could get all the bolts in prior to doing any porting in the runners, and just didn't open them up fully at the bottom where it started to feel thin.
I still ended up barely dimpling one of them...... And I smeared a little JB weld on the outside to seal any possible leak.

I used header bolts with the heads ground a little shorter in those 4 holes.

This all happened quite a long while ago, but as I recall the intake mod was worth over a tenth on a friends S/G car.

Very impressive!

I obviously have the wrong daily driver!

Good info and we are lucky to have manifolds w/a hp design in mind more than a fitment thing............

You sure don't need a big stroker. With a good set of cylinder heads on a 440 or a 400/451 you can make 600 HP before 6,000 rpm on pump 91 octane.

One thing to keep in mind is your adding 60 cid.,and I have seen a difference of 100 ft lbs of torgue @ 3000 rpm..

As an example my 500" 440 makes 600 ft lbs from 3300 up, what this means for me was my converter that stalled at 4500 with a 520 hp 545 tq 446", the 645 hp 620 tq 500" stalled it at 6000!!

Both motors run the same rpm range but the big motor mph better so it needs a different gear also.

I'm just saying there are more parts to get after the new bulit.

As the saying goes......

You can't change anything........ Without changing everything.

That being said.......if you're buying a rotating assy anyway....... I wouldn't be buying one with a stock stroke.

I resemble that. I like the Indy dual plane for what I do with my car being a driver. It does have pretty good size ports for a dual plane and its lower then most single planes. I honestly think about the only single plane I can fit under my hood is the Street Dominator or the MP 337 intake which one day I would like the try the 337 intake. The dual plane Indy on it now only gives me about 1/4" room between it and the scoop so I cant go with any taller intake. But I am not complaining as I was only looking for mid to high 10's. I think it has a bit more in it for sure but I wont change my scoop as I dont care for the taller Max Wedge scoops. I could always build a low deck eng one day. Ron

I personally have based 440 based engine 505 stroker, flywheel dyno'd 620 HP @ 5900 / 620 torque @ 4800, 4.25 stroke/7.1 Rod, Keith Black forged flat top pistons, A&A max wedge cross ram with two 600 cfm Edelbrock carbs, Edelbrock RPM heads, CNC ported by Modern Cylinder Head, Bullet solid flat tappet cam 259/263 @ 0.050, nearly .600 lift, 108 centerline, BHJ balancer, TTI 2 inch headers, 10.5 compression. Never run down the quarter but its super fun and fast enough. Will run on pump gas but likes 100 or 110 leaded octane better with more advance like 35 degrees. 4:10 Dana, with A-1 4800 stall 8 inch converter, and Pro-Trans full manual 727. Installed in my 1964 Plymouth Savoy, street legal and driven often. Yes...I hate changing the spark plugs on the passenger side.



I made a special wrench to get my # 2 and # 4 plugs. I took an old offset 5/8 box wrench and cut it off so its about 3 inches long. Then I just come in from the front to get them as I slide my arm under the alternator and header and pop the # 2 & 4 plugs out with that box wrench that fits real good in my hand. But its best to do it with a cold eng. The #6 & 8 plugs are easy for me to get and I use the EZ heads. Ron





Here is the wrench I cut on the bench. It was an old Powercraft wrench my dad bought many years ago at Montgomery Wards.

And I'd bet $$ you'd be faster/quicker w/a Dommy and single........Like Humpty on here running 10.60's w/a 4150 on a small-block then going 10.20's and picking up 6 mph...........No argument.........

No no argument from me as I agree with you. Is the 4500 Dominator taller then the 850 DP 4150 ? Thanks , Ron

I've had 3 big block combos so far and I've loved them all.

My first setup was a low deck 451" that ran 9.89 at 136mph at 3050#. Ported Eddy standard port heads, MP 590 purpleshaft cam, 2" underchassis headers, pump gas compression but I added a gallon of 110 at the track for safety.
Ran pretty much the same with a tuned 950HP 4150 carb as it did with a tuned #9375 1050 Dominator and M1 single plane. I then switched to an M1 tunnel ram and dropped a tenth and a half.

2nd combo went 9.82 at 3200#, 500" low deck with a 706/661 roller cam and Indy 440-1 heads, old castings that only flowed 329cfm.
Pump gas with one gallon of 110, 2" underchassis headers, Indy single plane and 1050 Dominator.

And my current combo is a 10:1 compression 500" street car(Duster), small MP 557 purpleshaft cam, Eddy heads and 950HP 4150 carb, 1 3/4" headers, mechanical water pump and fan, 9.5" converter and 3.23 gears. I'm hoping to squeak this one into a 10.99 or close to it.

Not much, but the problem arrives when the adapter is used as the tall 2" one screws things up in confined under hood scenarios like yours and others who will not add a scoop or a taller one. A Dommy manifold may solve that problem but now your starting over unless your cool w/that..........

Your cars really motivated me back then and looked and ran great................ I built an annular 4150 1050 for a local hi-8 second Camaro on spray which was maybe 400 inches not sure and it made 620 hp but was damn near flat from 6500-8500. Then Jason Pettis put on a 1050 Dommy dyno mule and it only picked up 6 hp peak and very little from 6500 to redline yet the 1050 I did for Humpty on here was the opposite. He gained lots going from 10.60's to 10.20's and 6 mph.........several variables involved that determine fuel and carb needs...........

Hoping to get the short block back in next week. Trying to decide on updating heads and cam.
Right now have a mp590 cam with ported 452.
Would like to upgrade to trick flow 240 heads any cam recommendations?

Best bet at this point would be to buy the heads with the roller springs on them already, and step up to a lifter friendly roller cam.

What rockers did that motor have?

Have crane 1.5

Iron or aluminum?

The iron aren't really suitable for roller use IMO, and with the aluminum ones I'd want to inspect each one very carefully before deeming them "roller worthy".

If you decide to stick with a flat tappet, while I understand the 590 cam is a perennial favorite, IMO a 270@.050/106lsa cam is a poor choice for something that will be run on the street with mufflers....... So, I'd do something different there if it were me.

Rockers are aluminum.

Cam is what was in old 440 that come in car.

I realize that....... I'm just saying I think there are better choices for this application.

Thanks Dom, I love mild affordable street combos that run good, yours fits that bill as well.

Imo I would give fast68 a call so y'all can discuss your goals he'll point you in the right direction

Call was made. My mind is still spinning from all the numbers, GREAT INFO!!!!!
Thanks fast68


Now it just comes down to how much I have to spend

Just a quick update the trick flow heads and intake where delivered yesterday the cam and rockers are on the way, Hopefully short block will be done soon.

Cool, what cam did you decide to go with?

Still waiting on the final specs, depending on what core they have available. Nothing to crazy need it to be street friendly

The Trick flow TFS-61602003 hydraulic roller used in their 620 HP, 240 head build 446" engine is 243/247 @ 0.050", and 0.600" lift with 1.5:1 rockers.

The parts I have gathered for the Jensen Interceptor, should make about 600 HP, and hopefully almost fall together without any extra/special work?

I have a similar sized Lunati 40230732 solid roller 243/249 @ 0.050", 0.578"/0.585" @ 1.5:1, but I am running 1.6:1 rockers (0.616"/0.624").

I am using the Trick flow 240 heads with the roller valve springs and Ti retainers. I had these checked out, and they were good to run out-of-the-box, and flowed as advertised.

I have not removed the original 440 engine to know what overbore it will need, but I think it is untouched, so I think a 0.030" overbore, 4.25" stroker kit with dished pistons. Most likely a 440 source 505" stroker kit with the 27cc dish pistons (9.9:1? compression.)
I will get the ARP2000 rod bolt option, not sure about the light-weight crank option?

I might also get the 440 source main girdle. Not so much that the engine needs it at this level, but I want to use the Jegs molded windage tray/oil pan gasket, and the 1/4" spacing of the girdle will make fitting the 4.15" stroke version of the windage tray easier. I have used that molded windage tray on the 505 in my '69 Coronet, and had to tweek it to fit without the girdle.

Keep us posted. Be nice to start seeing some track results for folks using the Trick Flow heads

so far with a couple of passes under it's belt my 512 has gone 6.22@109 footbrakin with a soft tune on it all 1/8th mile so far, Monster Mopar in two weeks will tell me more and thats where the tunin' fun begins.

I'm looking forward to see how they work, heads are nice looking if that counts for anything lol

If I drop to a 6.22 at 109 in eighth, and tuning just beginning, I will be happy

Small update. The trans was freshened, rear gear changed, converter was adjusted, Was hopping to run this weekend, but new oil pan had a bent lip and the biggest problem the pick up hits the crank. So searching for a pickup from local speed shops and see if I get lucky.

My cam and cr is not that far off from this so I may be ok on the street for a while with 446"..646 int/.631exh 260/296 at .050 112 lsa in at 108 just under 10/1 cr.Edel Victor heads 350 cfm at .650 lift.

1972 Satellite
Weight was 3200 with driver old combo (440 iron headed, filled with hard block. So little lighter now
New engine B block eagle 4.15 stroker kit 11.1 compression
Out of the box trick flows 240 for roller cam
Harland Sharp rocker arms 1.7 (thanks AndyF)
Comp Roller Cam (thanks fast68plymouth) around 268 dur and 690 lift.
High volume pump with jeg cheap pan and milodon pickup (thats a whole different story)
Trick flow intake out of the box.
950 holley unknown anything about it
MP distributor
super comp headers, open exhaust
8" ptc converter
4.1 gear
ladder bar car
transbrake
4 passes on new gear, converter and engine
No timing changes and little rich by looking at plugs
Passes made yesterday at Byron, il
Best pass was 10.214 at 131.04



Wanted to link threads

240 Trick Flow

10.20's with a new combo seems really good to me. Is the car legal for 9's? Seems like you'll be in the 9's pretty quickly with normal tuning.

LS swap

Car only good for 10.0 so will be a fun combo. Now have to get the rest of car ready for dragweek, time running out fast!

Dart451 I'd be curious to know what jets and power valve setup you're running if you get time to check it.

Plan on tearing into it tonight. Will let you know

Thanks
I needed that this morning

Jets
82 front 3.5PV POWER VALVE IS BAD
85 rear plugged PV

edit to include power valve is bad

Why the tight spread and what size pvcr's in the front..........What's your CRUISE vacuum not idle to determine p/v size.........

Not sure on pvcr, also nonadjustable air bleeds.

Will see what I can measure tonight.

Car was strip only, need to get exhaust and start working on cruise tuning.



Dragweek sneaking up fast and still ton of work to do. Not to mention everything else around the house that I was blowing off to get the car to this point lol

If I can help let me know unless it runs well for ya.............

I will take all the help I can get

Power Valve was bad starting a new thread so info don't get lost in this one.

Carb Tuning