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Re: No Power at Yellow Wire
[Re: anlauto]
#992877
05/16/11 12:56 AM
05/16/11 12:56 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,177
People's Republic of Kali
70runner
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,177
People's Republic of Kali
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Quote:
Interesting that you mention turn signals...
The 4-ways work as they should
The left and right turn signals, work as they should...
The brake light switch works as it should and has constant power..
I noticed with the key OFF and the turn signal switch on...I get one brake light on the passenger side (not very bright)
Are the brake lights wired though the signal light switch?
The car is an original 4spd, the transmission harness is included with the positive battery cable (Hemi)
As I type this, I just realized I could check those wires where I connected them to the bulkhead  Never thought of that 
As Mike mentioned, these are mostly symptoms of grounding issues. The courtesy lights and brake lights require a good body ground. If the car was repainted, its very possible you don't have a sufficient ground. On my 70RR I had to scrape off some paint where the rear courtesy lamp clamp piece touches the body to get a sufficient ground for the light socket. I had to add a ground strap to the brake light housing - inconspicuously of course.
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Re: No Power at Yellow Wire
[Re: 70runner]
#992878
05/16/11 08:09 PM
05/16/11 08:09 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,619
Almost Heaven
B_Body_Bob
Master of nothing
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Master of nothing
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,619
Almost Heaven
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Yeah just get/make some jumpers with alligator clips on each end, take them back to the tail light housing and clip them between that and a good ground. I bet the lights brighten up right away, and once you know that's the problem you can figure out how to improve the ground situation in a more copacetic way.
Wiring problems are a heck of a lot easier to figure out using a DMM instead of a test light too, ya noob.
Everybody makes fun of a hillbilly until they need something fixed
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Re: No Power at Yellow Wire
[Re: B_Body_Bob]
#992880
05/16/11 08:34 PM
05/16/11 08:34 PM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,169
Richmond, VA
rayztoy
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,169
Richmond, VA
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Quote:
problems are a heck of a lot easier to figure out using a DMM instead of a test light too, ya noob.
What is a DMM?
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Re: No Power at Yellow Wire
[Re: rayztoy]
#992883
05/16/11 08:40 PM
05/16/11 08:40 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
Quote:
problems are a heck of a lot easier to figure out using a DMM instead of a test light too, ya noob.
What is a DMM?
MultiMeter....digi,...although I prefer an analog mm
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Re: No Power at Yellow Wire
[Re: anlauto]
#992886
05/16/11 10:05 PM
05/16/11 10:05 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
Does anybody know where I can get a reasonable priced CORRECT 70 turn signal switch?
Either Year One, or your local Chrysler dealer carry the MP NORS column turnsignal harnesses,....the 70 B body is the same as the 71-4 B body, and the 71-4 E body,....i would check continuity/ and confirm wire orientation with a FSM before installing it
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Re: No Power at Yellow Wire
[Re: anlauto]
#992889
05/16/11 11:56 PM
05/16/11 11:56 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Does anybody know where I can get a reasonable priced CORRECT 70 turn signal switch?
Either Year One, or your local Chrysler dealer carry the MP NORS column turnsignal harnesses,....the 70 B body is the same as the 71-4 B body, and the 71-4 E body,....i would check continuity/ and confirm wire orientation with a FSM before installing it
That I don't believe, because the switch in this car, like other 70's I've done has a narrow pull knob, where the newer ones are wider and don't fit in the slot of the steering column.
The switch in this car looks like the one in this picture...
I don't know what switch you have Alan,...or where you got it,..All I can tell you is the switch that I used, was a new Chrysler repro NORS, that I purchased thru Year One, along with ALL the dash/engine and body harnesses that M&H made for a 70 440/6 manual trans Charger,....
Year One PN# FD93102 that's off my invoice for the column switch $70, it's listed as 70-4 b body and 71-4 E body
Mike
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Re: No Power at Yellow Wire
[Re: anlauto]
#992891
05/17/11 02:52 AM
05/17/11 02:52 AM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,248
State of retirement
52savoy
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,248
State of retirement
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Quote:
The black knob (for lack of a better term) is much wider on the newer ones 
I hope those turn signal harnesses you pictured aren't for the same model. The wire colors aren't even close and could be a lot of work tracing a problem.
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Re: No Power at Yellow Wire
[Re: anlauto]
#992892
05/17/11 07:54 AM
05/17/11 07:54 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,455
It's a dry heat
gtx6970
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,455
It's a dry heat
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Quote:
The black knob (for lack of a better term) is much wider on the newer ones
Mopar superseded the switch many times and serviced it under many PT #'s . the most recent ones require widening the slot in the column.
Current part numbers it's avail under is 4293102 and retail is about $100
I have them here if you want a current pic of what one looks like.
The 1970( and maybe 1971 ? ) switch is hard to find and expensive when you do
With the issues your describing, I have my doubts you going to see any 'problems' with an 'external' switch examination.
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Re: No Power at Yellow Wire
[Re: anlauto]
#992895
05/19/11 12:26 AM
05/19/11 12:26 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,445
So Cal
Sinitro
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,445
So Cal
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Quote:
Quote:
With the issues your describing, I have my doubts you going to see any 'problems' with an 'external' switch examination.
I tend to agree with you there Bill...no visible signs of any problem...
I have a new switch here in stock that I can "make work" but it entails modifying the column for the wider switch, which would be up to the owner.
The above two pictures were taken from EBay last night and both are listed as being correct for a 70 B Body.
The first one, the one similar to the one in the car is $275 
Why not use the trusty dremel and shave down slightly the plastic knob...
Easier shaving plastic rather than cutting metal..
The replacement switch from Mopar fits different years, we have installed many by shaving down slightly their edges..
Just my $0.02.. 
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During the column restoration I replaced the turn signal cam with one of those parts pack pieces to retain the correct 4-way pull switch...
....I've since made a jumper wire and quickly solved that problem.
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