Pull the gas cap off and see if it changes

you know what woody, i'm tending to think a blockage also, maybe in the primary bowl since i just noticed the float laying down in the bowl and no reaction from trying to raise it. mr. P i already tried that but definitely good call, thanks

The gauge you are using is not one of those liquad filled ones is it??? Those are the must inaccuarte. As the oil in the gauge changes tempertures you get different readings.

If the fuel level is high and the float is sunk it is either bent or full of fuel. Black ones don't fuel log that I have seen. Once the needle and seat is adjusted too much it does not close any more. Kinda goes past center. You may need a fuel regulator.
Black ones are bad for the tang bending! But it can be bent back up and start over.

I like to hold bowl upside down and adjust till float is centered kind duplicates the fuel floating it!

If you bought a liquid filled fuel gauge toss it!!

ok, i'm a little embarrassed and still a bit confused. it is a new carb and it seems it was the float level causing it to die in gear idling (oops, feel like a bit of a dummie), i took the floats out and indeed they needed to have the tang bent back on them so i could get a good fuel level in the bowl (thanks dodgem, good call). so the car runs ok now BUT....the filter still starts out full and after 15-20 minutes is almost empty with just a trickle of fuel in the inlet, the car runs good and the gauge reads 4-5 psi constant, it just has no fuel in the filter????? should i just consider this normal? thanks to everyone for the help, i just wanted to share what i found but if anyone can explain if the empty filter thing is normal or not i would love to hear your thoughts, again it's an old mechanical pump on it now with no regulator.

curious about the empty filter thing?

take the filter out and try it . I would run larger fuel line and atleast a real 3/8 or larger filter .The fuel gauge it's self could be a resriction .
keep us posted
DR

If you use a longer hose and point the filter out down it will fill. Then you can sleep at night.

Check for restriction on the tank vent. Sounds like some, not complete vapour lock. I had this on the Ramcharger I bought. The filter was always empty after changing a new stock 360 fuel pump I noticed the joker removed the charcoal cannister and plugged the vent line with a bolt. Clear filter then filled up once I cleared the vent line. There is some slight air in the top as some mentioned. My big block coronet with carter super pump, the filter fills right up after a couple seconds.

Two reason I know of for seeing air in that filter.

Heat-Gas is boiling in the line causing air to accumulate in the filter.

Other is pressure surges from the needle and seat. This is kinda complex. Never really seen this first hand. But, was told by a veteran Comp racer that when the needle drops allowing fuel into the bowl every thing is great. Then is slams shut causing a reversion in pressure. If it opens again soon enough after closing and catches that reversion supposedly you can actually get air into the fuel line.

The last one I have never actually watched and personally seen happen. I understand some of what is being said because I have seen a similar situation in an intake manifold with parts coming apart in one cylinder ending up all through the intake manifold and into other cylinders.

If the air in the filter really bothered me and I had already tried standing the filter up first. You could try a fuel return system. I think Magnaflow makes an adapeter that goes between the hose and the fuel bowl. This adapter allows you to hook a very small line up that returns air and fuel back to the tank. It is a lot of trouble to do for a street car and would probably be something that you would have to homemake considering the plumbing you are using.

Leon

I would think you will be better off with the filter down low, out of the engine compartment heat. Maybe a good phenolic spacer to help the carb too. But before you quit and feel it is all fixed, it would be a good idea to check the entire system, starting with a flow test of the pump, then move up the line all the way to the carb one piece at a time.
that way, when the summer heat comes, you will be ready!