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I think what you guys are missing is this stuff is for specific application race engines not for mainstream engines.
A regular billet core will work fine until you can't get the lobes in the block.

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Or need lobes re-located , which ( sorry for the redundancy ) is also pretty specific , not to mention light years ahead of the average Joe.
Hey Man.......I'm guilty of it too.
I'm going with a front drive distributor on a street & strip R-3 / W-9 combo for show and tell purposes.
But the villagers will see that...........I can tell them I have any cam I want to at that point and they'll have no choice but to believe. ( MoPar UGL billet sent to Bullet and pretty tame as cams go. )
I could have gone with a simple chain and good distributor for significantly less $$.
And I am aware of the potential shortcomings of this set up for street use , up to and including road crud finding it's way into the belts and street manners with locked out timing.
But there are two other "65 Dart G.T.'s roaming around here............they're getting to be like Camaro's or Nova's.
I had to do something to set myself apart.
Even on a pure race car , at the performance level I am looking at , I am over doing some things.
And I think that is fairly common for a lot of us.
Others listen to the voice of reason and allow common sense and fiscal responsibility to enter into the equation.

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thanks everyone. I'll stick with the std bearings but go to 54mm core , now sounds like best idea.
Appreciate the help.

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250/262 @ .050, .700 lift at valve, 114 LSA, solid roller

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appreciate the info from everyone.

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Shop around before you give up on the 54mm idea...

It is a no charge upgrade from Keith Black Racing, and several companies stock the cores. Mine was from LSM

Yes it was a bit more than a shelf stock cam, but if you want the most performance available you should go custom grind anyways.

Comp has the cores as well.

Good luck,

Arnie

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250/262 @ .050, .700 lift at valve, 114 LSA, solid roller

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why would anyone bother using these cam specs?

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Do you mean:
1. why would I bother using Large journal cam IF using these cam specs?, or,
2. Why would I bother using these cam spec's?

if you mean 2. there's a good reason.

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Wow
awesome.
My cam is/will be very tame by comparison.

what sort of seat/open spring pressure for .700 lift solid roller with roller rockers & heavy valvetrain components ~<7,000rpm....?

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At 7000 revs you wont need alot... but it also will
depend on the valve train weight... but I have .710
lift with 320 on seat and 900 open... you could get
away with 300 seat and 650 open...... JMO

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Wow
awesome.
My cam is/will be very tame by comparison.

what sort of seat/open spring pressure for .700 lift solid roller with roller rockers & heavy valvetrain components ~<7,000rpm....?

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At 7000 revs you wont need alot... but it also will
depend on the valve train weight... but I have .710
lift with 320 on seat and 900 open... you could get
away with 300 seat and 650 open...... JMO

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Ideally I want as little flex as possible (as I assume everyone does), so tapered thick wall pushrods, Jesel or T&D rocker system (which I have another question about Jesels are they aluminium will they last.?)

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Hemified,

I'll tell you why. What if he wants to step up in the future to a serious cam or resell the block at a later date to someone else. If your going to spend the money for the block why not get the features that will let you go Extreme at a later date if needed.

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stepping up has not been the question here nor even mentioned.

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Mike, hemifred
at the highest key criteria around my build are:
1. strength
2. durability/longevity
3. power

it's a 526 Hemi F2 ProCharger.
In terms of the spec required to deliver 3.Power I believe I have it close in the combination of cam/headflow/compression/ F2 supercharger @15psi/intercooler EFI etc etc. 1,500-1,600hp.

I'm designing it around the best of both worlds (if that's even possible).so it's down to reliability...to 1.&2... which are probably connected.
Intended use will clearly play a major part, and the car will be mostly street driven with occasional bursts but also likely are LONG long distance runs too.
I do not want to be taking the engine out every few weeks/months to check everything, so I assume the best choice of parts & combination from a mechanical perspective is paramount. this is why I am looking at all the options for each component set, such as roller cam bearings/large journal,.Billet crank etc.