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I think this was my problem. The last kit I pirchased had the tabs seperate from the main seal. Can't remember what company. I didn't cut them off though. I have the new main seal which are the brown seals in this pic. They are Fel-pro #40181. They came with no tabs on them and no tabs in the box.

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Will the fel-pro black silicone that's in the pic work ok to seal it ?

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It should but make sure the surfaces are DRY from
any oil(oil the crank so it doesnt stick to it and
tear up the joints)

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Thanks. I have to go to town so I will look for "The Right Stuff" while I'm there. Now I will clean parts and oil the crank.

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I think this was my problem. The last kit I pirchased had the tabs seperate from the main seal. Can't remember what company. I didn't cut them off though. I have the new main seal which are the brown seals in this pic. They are Fel-pro #40181. They came with no tabs on them and no tabs in the box.

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I have had great luck using the 318 magnum 1 piece gasket. In all cases you have to modify the oil pan to take the tab bump out of the pan rails so the gasket matches the pan. Easy to do with any hammer and dolly, and a welder. None of the 340s or 318s I built have leaked. I with MrP and never stagger the seal. Just made a headache for me in the past.

I also have a high oil psi engine, but no leaks at all. SOMEDAY ill shimm the pump, but for now Im gonna just run 10w40 oil.

Kasey

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For all you guys using Sillycone on your rear main seals what do you think that will actually accomplish
Do Not use any sealers on the rear seal itself unless you want to create potential issues

You have the rear main seal offset in the cap WAY TOO MUCH another potential issue.

For the situation at hand with the motor in the car I recommend offsetting the seal 1/8" (.125") with assembly lube on the back side so it will rotate into position with the other half when the main cap is torqued. Use plenty of assembly lube on the seal lip AND crankshaft as it actually takes a long time for oil to reach that area upon initial start up.

The only reason for offsetting a seal is to align the main cap groove with the groove in the block. The seals must mate perfectly square to each other or there WILL be a leak. Main cap to block alignment should always be checked and corrected before any block work is done to the mains, then a referance mark should be placed on the block and cap for proper alingment for assembly. This will eliminate the need to offset the seal.

Just speaking from over 20 years of specializing in automotive oil seals so take it FWIW

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I can only check the seals to see if they mate. That doesn't mean they will mate when they are installed. Main cap to block allignment I did not check. Motor was built 3 years ago.
So if both of these issues are off and I do not use sillycone, chances are I will have a leak. But if I use sillycone (silicone) in both thes places, are you saying there is more potential for a leak ? By the way "The Right Stuff" is the wrong price. $20 for a 4 oz tube.

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For all you guys using Sillycone on your rear main seals what do you think that will actually accomplish
Do Not use any sealers on the rear seal itself unless you want to create potential issues

You have the rear main seal offset in the cap WAY TOO MUCH another potential issue.

For the situation at hand with the motor in the car I recommend offsetting the seal 1/8" (.125") with assembly lube on the back side so it will rotate into position with the other half when the main cap is torqued. Use plenty of assembly lube on the seal lip AND crankshaft as it actually takes a long time for oil to reach that area upon initial start up.

The only reason for offsetting a seal is to align the main cap groove with the groove in the block. The seals must mate perfectly square to each other or there WILL be a leak. Main cap to block alignment should always be checked and corrected before any block work is done to the mains, then a referance mark should be placed on the block and cap for proper alingment for assembly. This will eliminate the need to offset the seal.

Just speaking from over 20 years of specializing in automotive oil seals so take it FWIW

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I can only check the seals to see if they mate. That doesn't mean they will mate when they are installed. Main cap to block allignment I did not check. Motor was built 3 years ago.
So if both of these issues are off and I do not use sillycone, chances are I will have a leak. But if I use sillycone (silicone) in both thes places, are you saying there is more potential for a leak ? By the way "The Right Stuff" is the wrong price. $20 for a 4 oz tube.

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I can only check the seals to see if they mate. That doesn't mean they will mate when they are installed. Main cap to block allignment I did not check. Motor was built 3 years ago.
So if both of these issues are off and I do not use sillycone, chances are I will have a leak. But if I use sillycone (silicone) in both thes places, are you saying there is more potential for a leak ? By the way "The Right Stuff" is the wrong price. $20 for a 4 oz tube.

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They will mate properly if you offset them 1/8" (.125") and NOT the 1/2" or so that appears in your above photo
I only suggest the offset because your motor is together and there is no way to determine the seals will be aligned when the main cap is torqued.

Sillycone Will Not cure the problem of the seal halves not mating properly, trust me. When the main cap is torqued where do you think the sillycone oozes out to?........ Little hint, between the seal and the crankshaft

Only assembly lube should be on the seal (back side and seal lip). Only place for sealer is on the main cap seals if they are of the design that are seperate from the seal itself. (See Photo)

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OK,

the 318 fel pro gasket is FPG 0s34408R
the 360 fel pro gasket is FPG 0s34409R

Kasey

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Dont know then, Ill have to dig through 3 years of notes. May have used a newer front timming cover or something. But I know i built 1 340 2 360s and used 1 piece gaskets.

Ill keep digging..

Kasey

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Thanks

I think the 1 piece would be less likely to leak compared too the 4 piece.

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Dont know then, Ill have to dig through 3 years of notes. May have used a newer front timming cover or something. But I know i built 1 340 2 360s and used 1 piece gaskets.

Ill keep digging..

Kasey

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Thanks

I think the 1 piece would be less likely to leak compared too the 4 piece.

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As far as I know they only make the 1 piece for the
360 only

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Well I just ran accross my notes on the 2 340s I built, and BOTH engines were dirt late model engines, and BOTH blocks were 360 blocks with callies spacers, so that answers that. That kinda sucks. I knew I had them speced at 340" and they are, just older 360 blocks. Sorry,

Someone needs to do this then. The fella on here who specializes in seals and gaskets should try to get the ball rolling maybee?

Kasey

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I'll take donations starting at 10K to do those

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They will mate properly if you offset them 1/8" (.125") and NOT the 1/2" or so that appears in your above photo
I only suggest the offset because your motor is together and there is no way to determine the seals will be aligned when the main cap is torqued.

Sillycone Will Not cure the problem of the seal halves not mating properly, trust me. When the main cap is torqued where do you think the sillycone oozes out to?........ Little hint, between the seal and the crankshaft

Only assembly lube should be on the seal (back side and seal lip). Only place for sealer is on the main cap seals if they are of the design that are seperate from the seal itself. (See Photo)

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You make a good point about the silicone oozing out on the crank and the offset. I just want to make sure it won't leak again. That's why I ask so many questions. I appreciate your input along with everyone elses. I've been wrenching on these mopars for over 25 years but not afraid to admit I don't know everything about them and have made my share of mistakes. Thanks again.

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Well I just ran accross my notes on the 2 340s I built, and BOTH engines were dirt late model engines, and BOTH blocks were 360 blocks with callies spacers, so that answers that. That kinda sucks. I knew I had them speced at 340" and they are, just older 360 blocks. Sorry,

Someone needs to do this then. The fella on here who specializes in seals and gaskets should try to get the ball rolling maybee?

Kasey

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Now I can stop looking for something that don't exist Thought the auto parts store guys were smoking to much
My notes must not be as organized as yours. Would have taken me hours to look through mine. Plus this dial-up I have takes forever to respond.

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Well I just ran accross my notes on the 2 340s I built, and BOTH engines were dirt late model engines, and BOTH blocks were 360 blocks with callies spacers, so that answers that. That kinda sucks. I knew I had them speced at 340" and they are, just older 360 blocks. Sorry,

Someone needs to do this then. The fella on here who specializes in seals and gaskets should try to get the ball rolling maybee?

Kasey

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Now I can stop looking for something that don't exist Thought the auto parts store guys were smoking to much
My notes must not be as organized as yours. Would have taken me hours to look through mine. Plus this dial-up I have takes forever to respond.

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I did run accross my notes, and it was easier to call the 2 guys up and just ask them.