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My new combo only has 9 runs on it. But the tracks open tomarrow . It's a 541ci (4.375 bore X 4.5 stroke) in a 77 440 block. I guess you can say I don't agree with the hype around here . It's just a 345CnC -1 headed, ultradyne .680/.280. Bla bla bla.

These experts would hate for me to tell you it's mostly 440source stuff with stock caps lmao

it does have GRP rods though

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So you think turning a stock block stroker to 6500 and under you have alot better chance of survival? Even with 12.5-1 compression? I want mine to live as long as possible.I also have a 3/8 oil pick up so I have been trying not to over rev it. How high is to high?

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I shift my pump gas 518 C.I. 400 block stroker motor at or slightly above 7000 RPM, the 440 block stroker motor probally at or under 6500 RPM As far as helping make the motor live I think E85 or pure alcholol will help prevent detonation, not just the shift RPMs If your going to use race gas I would shoot for 12.0 to 1 comp. ratio or lower The last 440 block I saw that had cracked the main webs had 14.7 to 1 comp. ratio I have seen B and RB motors break the stock main caps on race gas but not on alcholol or E85, yet I treid buying some of the old Mopar brand ductile iron main cap kits last week, no luck on either the B or RB motor kits, that leaves two options on replacing the stock main caps, steel or aluminum I like steel better than aluminum

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I like the 4.250" stroke crank.
With a 4.375" bore, that is 511 CID.

Works great, I love it.

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That's what I have. I thought it was 505, but your probably right. Love your Dart.

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gregsdart please explain this center counter weight crank to me ..i have a idea of what your saying just never really heard of that..mike

also the big thing is i have -1 heads unported with 2.25 valve with a nice size cam [Email]280@50[/Email] and 731 with the rockers 1.6..

plan to hard block to bottom of water pump holes and cross bolt and girdle

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There was a guy on a few weeks ago that built a bracket stroker that had a really conservative cam in it, but it was going in a light car and it was going to be both quick and consistent, it was an interesting read and to me what he was doing made perfct sense and it goes back to my early day of bracket racing (when i had time and resources to go every week-end). The guys that always went to the money rounds week after week always seemed to have very basic combos (like 468 chevies and under carbed 340's) that were just dead-nuts reliable and eerily consistent; to a man each one of them said to go rounds you want to build the motor to about 90% of it's potential, keep the revs down and focus on the chassis tuning and cutting lights, don't chase that last .01 of et, I always thought it was really good advice. Keep it in the sweet spot where it's consistent, reliable and easy on parts.

I always applied that in a practical sense that once you get past that 90-ish percent level, the incremental gains are smaller and also A LOT MORE EXPENSIVE, plus you supersize it by pushing your whole investment harder, for some that's the dream and ambition and that's great and more power to them, but sometimes it's just as easy to cut the car weight down and go just as fast while still keeping the motor (usually the biggest $$$ investment) on the safe side of the redline.

The original question was "how do you like to build them?", which means it's anyone who chimes in personal opinion, so to my mind there's really no 'wrong answers'...I'm getting a little (well really A LOT) tired of all the that nearly every 2+ page thread degenerates to, about to the point where I might need to take a break, maybe just 'lurk' a while to see which direction this website / forum wants to go

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I sure would hate for that to happen Wize. I truly look forward to your posts and have based my build on your advice. For those of us that are less experienced, namely me, I hope you stick around and continue to provide your input.