Quote:

---

I am looking at the a-1000 stealth cell full return setup and bypass regulator for my 408 powered street/ strip truck.

Good? Bad? Ugly?

I notice they also want me to buy a speed controller?
What's up with that?

Is anyone running something like this on their carbed n/a mostly street driven vehicle? I want reliability, as I plan on going on some roadtrips...

It seems like a nice quality fuel system and would be a clean installation, but I would like to hear experiences ot anything anyone has to offer.

Thanks!

---

Quote:

---

I went with the 20 gal since it was very little more money. I also used the BG controller simply because it was the cheapest one I could find. But I can't tell you how it will all work 'cause I don't have the car on the street yet.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I went with the 20 gal since it was very little more money. I also used the BG controller simply because it was the cheapest one I could find. But I can't tell you how it will all work 'cause I don't have the car on the street yet.

---

Why do you need the controller?
That's what I'm mainly curious about...does the pump suffer at a full 12 volts?

---

Quote:

---

I have an A1000 and using the controller for it as well...

At idle it slows the pump down as mentioned..it is fully adjustable when you want it to ramp up to full speed as well.

Only been up and down the street a few times with the car, but it is close (super duper close) to being totally done and will be doing some miles in it so will see how well the combo does with lots of driving around on it

---

why is it necessary to slow the pump at idle?
This is what I dont know.

Quote:

---

I am not a fan of the A1000. A friend of mine has a twin turbo LSx 66 Nova that made 1000rwhp(black primered one featured in Car Craft) and he used a A1000 the first time. He drove the car on the Power Tour and had to stop numerous times because the pump kept over heating. In all fairness he was not running a controller but he replaced the A1000 with a Weldon pump with no other changes and it has been trouble free for 40k miles with numerous Power Tour Long Hauls and is much less noisey. The Areomotive set up is pretty pricey and you could get a custom stainless tank with a pair of Walbros in tank pumps cheaper and be more dependable. There are low 9 second full wieght cars running two Walbro 255's and they only cost $110 a piece and are extremely dependable and no controller required. Or if you want a cell just buy the cell and use two external Walbro 255's and you will save yourself $300 or $400 with no loss in performance or you could have the cell modded for in-tank pumps and go that route. I think it likely comes down to how much you drive the car. If you never go on long trips then overheating pumps of any sort is not a big concern but if you like to drive a lot its something to keep in mind.

---

Good info and points! I had several ideas, but settled on this one.
This is one of the few times I have heard of this. But I could see it happening 100 miles into a trip with 6 gallons circulating around.

What size was his cell?
I ordered the 20 gallon aeromotive aluminum stealth cell with internal a-1000.

This is going into a dakota mounted in the bed.

I will be driving it around a lot locally, but will also take it on long trips occasionally.

As far as a controller goes...I definitely will not be using 3/4 of the pump's capability. This will be a 408 with occasional nitrous use. So what if I were to use some type of rheostat mounted under the hood and slow it down to I dunno...say 3/4 all the time?

I figure if I could slow it down a certain amount all the time with a simple tweak of a knob, as long as I maintain the desired fuel pressure at WOT, I'm good. Right? I think the controller form aeromotive is like 300 bucks...ouch!

I would have bought something smaller, but I wanted room to grow.
I figured I'd just get it over with.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I have an A1000 and using the controller for it as well...

At idle it slows the pump down as mentioned..it is fully adjustable when you want it to ramp up to full speed as well.

Only been up and down the street a few times with the car, but it is close (super duper close) to being totally done and will be doing some miles in it so will see how well the combo does with lots of driving around on it

---

why is it necessary to slow the pump at idle?
This is what I dont know.

---

It just saves pumping it up to the engine and returning most of it by running at full volume at low rpm when the engine is not using as much fuel....is what I gathered. Keeps the fuel cooler that was as well I believe.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I am not a fan of the A1000. A friend of mine has a twin turbo LSx 66 Nova that made 1000rwhp(black primered one featured in Car Craft) and he used a A1000 the first time. He drove the car on the Power Tour and had to stop numerous times because the pump kept over heating. In all fairness he was not running a controller but he replaced the A1000 with a Weldon pump with no other changes and it has been trouble free for 40k miles with numerous Power Tour Long Hauls and is much less noisey. The Areomotive set up is pretty pricey and you could get a custom stainless tank with a pair of Walbros in tank pumps cheaper and be more dependable. There are low 9 second full wieght cars running two Walbro 255's and they only cost $110 a piece and are extremely dependable and no controller required. Or if you want a cell just buy the cell and use two external Walbro 255's and you will save yourself $300 or $400 with no loss in performance or you could have the cell modded for in-tank pumps and go that route. I think it likely comes down to how much you drive the car. If you never go on long trips then overheating pumps of any sort is not a big concern but if you like to drive a lot its something to keep in mind.

---

Good info and points! I had several ideas, but settled on this one.
This is one of the few times I have heard of this. But I could see it happening 100 miles into a trip with 6 gallons circulating around.

What size was his cell?
I ordered the 20 gallon aeromotive aluminum stealth cell with internal a-1000.

This is going into a dakota mounted in the bed.

I will be driving it around a lot locally, but will also take it on long trips occasionally.

As far as a controller goes...I definitely will not be using 3/4 of the pump's capability. This will be a 408 with occasional nitrous use. So what if I were to use some type of rheostat mounted under the hood and slow it down to I dunno...say 3/4 all the time?

I figure if I could slow it down a certain amount all the time with a simple tweak of a knob, as long as I maintain the desired fuel pressure at WOT, I'm good. Right? I think the controller form aeromotive is like 300 bucks...ouch!

I would have bought something smaller, but I wanted room to grow.
I figured I'd just get it over with.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I am looking at the a-1000 stealth cell full return setup and bypass regulator for my 408 powered street/ strip truck.

Good? Bad? Ugly?

I notice they also want me to buy a speed controller?
What's up with that?

Is anyone running something like this on their carbed n/a mostly street driven vehicle? I want reliability, as I plan on going on some roadtrips...

It seems like a nice quality fuel system and would be a clean installation, but I would like to hear experiences ot anything anyone has to offer.

Thanks!

---

if you mean the aeromotive a-100 fuel pump. i have one on my 572 hemi 72 road rummer.
i have about 50,000 trouble free miles on my pump over 15 years time.
my pump is externally mounted near where the pinion snubber hits the floor. i run 10 an feed and return lines. i also run a variable voltage relay box, high and low settings, made by barry grant. my car has a carb.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I am not a fan of the A1000. A friend of mine has a twin turbo LSx 66 Nova that made 1000rwhp(black primered one featured in Car Craft) and he used a A1000 the first time. He drove the car on the Power Tour and had to stop numerous times because the pump kept over heating. In all fairness he was not running a controller but he replaced the A1000 with a Weldon pump with no other changes and it has been trouble free for 40k miles with numerous Power Tour Long Hauls and is much less noisey. The Areomotive set up is pretty pricey and you could get a custom stainless tank with a pair of Walbros in tank pumps cheaper and be more dependable. There are low 9 second full wieght cars running two Walbro 255's and they only cost $110 a piece and are extremely dependable and no controller required. Or if you want a cell just buy the cell and use two external Walbro 255's and you will save yourself $300 or $400 with no loss in performance or you could have the cell modded for in-tank pumps and go that route. I think it likely comes down to how much you drive the car. If you never go on long trips then overheating pumps of any sort is not a big concern but if you like to drive a lot its something to keep in mind.

---

Good info and points! I had several ideas, but settled on this one.
This is one of the few times I have heard of this. But I could see it happening 100 miles into a trip with 6 gallons circulating around.

What size was his cell?
I ordered the 20 gallon aeromotive aluminum stealth cell with internal a-1000.

This is going into a dakota mounted in the bed.

I will be driving it around a lot locally, but will also take it on long trips occasionally.

As far as a controller goes...I definitely will not be using 3/4 of the pump's capability. This will be a 408 with occasional nitrous use. So what if I were to use some type of rheostat mounted under the hood and slow it down to I dunno...say 3/4 all the time?

I figure if I could slow it down a certain amount all the time with a simple tweak of a knob, as long as I maintain the desired fuel pressure at WOT, I'm good. Right? I think the controller form aeromotive is like 300 bucks...ouch!

I would have bought something smaller, but I wanted room to grow.
I figured I'd just get it over with.

---

A 20 gallon aluminum cell with internal A1000 shouldn't have cavitation or heating problems at all. The 20 gallon cell will act like a big radiator. In tank cuts way down on noise also. I'd just run it w/o controller.

The controllers don't simply cut voltage; they interrupt power briefly, on and off. Simply cutting the voltage can cause the pump motor to run hot.

---

I have a 32 gallon tank actually....not that I'll be able to afford to fill it the way things are going