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Re: Battery disconect in the trunk
[Re: DANA60]
#935926
02/23/11 07:47 PM
02/23/11 07:47 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
WILD BILL
Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club
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Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
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Quote:
I want to mount a switch outside the back of the car some where. Any sudgestions and or photos? It's for a 71 B Body
What are the track rules on these?
Is this a race car or street strip?
I have pics of both mine and GIna's 72 but they are on the PC at home.
Rules state any time a battery is relocated to the trunk a master cut off is required.
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Re: Battery disconect in the trunk
[Re: WILD BILL]
#935927
02/23/11 07:53 PM
02/23/11 07:53 PM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 616
TP Exit 7, NJ, USA
DANA60
OP
mopar
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OP
mopar
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 616
TP Exit 7, NJ, USA
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95% street, but I don't want to get into some probs with tech. Also general safety. Does the location mater?
Last edited by DANA60; 02/23/11 07:54 PM.
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Re: Battery disconect in the trunk
[Re: DANA60]
#935928
02/23/11 08:11 PM
02/23/11 08:11 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
WILD BILL
Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club
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Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
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Quote:
Also general safety. Does the location mater?
Of the switch?
Yes it matters. It must be on the rear and calerly labeled how to turn it off.
I'll post the pics when I get home but it won't be till after 8. Sorry
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Re: Battery disconect in the trunk
[Re: DANA60]
#935929
02/23/11 09:38 PM
02/23/11 09:38 PM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 964
Nanaimo, B.C.
GwaiiEagle
Mannix
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Mannix
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 964
Nanaimo, B.C.
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The location will depend on the car. Rare or cherry stock and you might want to think about hanging off the bottom of the bumper by bolting it to the bottom of the bumper. See Valiant Effort location at MM Mag. Others through the rear keyway, bolted via the gone bumpertette slot. I crazily hole sawed the taillight bezel.A move I regret, mostly because it will confirm some peoples' view of me as a hilly billy  Yes, I regret it, yes that is a cutoff wheel, and no I am not a Hillbilly. 
Last edited by GwaiiEagle; 02/23/11 09:40 PM.
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Re: Battery disconect in the trunk
[Re: GoodysGotaCuda]
#935931
02/23/11 10:04 PM
02/23/11 10:04 PM
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,648
GA
Boosted
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,648
GA
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I went through the tail panel...
2011 RAM3500
1967 Fastback Barracuda with some go fast goodies.
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Re: Battery disconect in the trunk
[Re: Boosted]
#935932
02/23/11 10:33 PM
02/23/11 10:33 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
WILD BILL
Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club
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Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
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Ok Here's the pics of our cars.
Gina's car I used the push pull style and went through one of the exsisting holes in the bumper. though I did have to enlarge it slightly so the rod wouldn't bind. Best part is the rod can be taken out and left in the trunk when driven on the street. I did shorten the rod a bit to fit. 
Or you could do something like mine if you don't want to run a plate 
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Re: Battery disconect in the trunk
[Re: stumpy]
#935934
02/24/11 09:15 AM
02/24/11 09:15 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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Quote:
As said earlier. It's only necessary when the battery is in the trunk. It also must isolate the charing system because just cutting off the battery won't kill the engine.
yup, which is easy to do.
the simplest way is to run a long wire from the alternator to the positive lug on the battery, then, you have the "big wire" that goes to the starter motor also feeds the power to the rest of the car.
some don't like that big wire being "hot" all the time, and will hook up a series of relays and solenoids so that a big 0-gauge wire is only hot when cranking, then a smaller 8 or 10-gauge wire powers the ignition system, radio, lights, etc.
however, either way, you still have a decent sized wire running the length of the car, that's hot all the time, so either way you do it, you have the same risk of shorts/fires. in my opinion, simpler is better, fewer connections, fewer parts, etc.
**Photobucket sucks**
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Re: Battery disconect in the trunk
[Re: DANA60]
#935936
02/24/11 11:10 AM
02/24/11 11:10 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
WILD BILL
Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club
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Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
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Rules say it must be on the hot side of the battery and kill ALL power to the car
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Re: Battery disconect in the trunk
[Re: GwaiiEagle]
#935938
02/24/11 01:13 PM
02/24/11 01:13 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,968
North Riverside IL & Lowell IN
GTXKen
super gas
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super gas
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,968
North Riverside IL & Lowell IN
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Quote:
The location will depend on the car.
Rare or cherry stock and you might want to think about hanging off the bottom of the bumper by bolting it to the bottom of the bumper. See Valiant Effort location at MM Mag.
Others through the rear keyway, bolted via the gone bumpertette slot.
I crazily hole sawed the taillight bezel.A move I regret, mostly because it will confirm some peoples' view of me as a hilly billy
Yes, I regret it, yes that is a cutoff wheel, and no I am not a Hillbilly.
I actually think that going through the taillight is a good idea depending on the car and if you have a spare lense and bezel. I think it looks cool on some cars. I would consider it on mine, I thing the recessed lights of a GTX,Roadrunner or Satellite are well suited for a cut off switch.
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Re: Battery disconect in the trunk
[Re: stumpy]
#935939
02/24/11 02:44 PM
02/24/11 02:44 PM
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,377
Ohio
Todd
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,377
Ohio
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Quote:
As said earlier. It's only necessary when the battery is in the trunk. It also must isolate the charging system because just cutting off the battery won't kill the engine.
Here is mine with a solonoid disconect for the one wire alternator.
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Re: Battery disconect in the trunk
[Re: DANA60]
#935940
02/24/11 04:02 PM
02/24/11 04:02 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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Quote:
Thanks for everything.
Any diagrams on how that wiring works? Alt, battery, switch. If it goes direct from Alt to battery isn't that too high a charge?
nope.
as long as your battery voltage equals the voltage seen at the voltage regulator AND voltage at the alternator, then you're fine. chances are, you'll even lose a half volt or so with that long run from the alternator to the battery, and you'll be fine.
That's how I have my truck wired. one wire from switch to the starter, which then from the starter, jumps up to feed the entire electrical system. the positive charge wire off the alternator goes straight back and is on the battery side of the switch, so that when I kill the switch, all positive charge is isolated from the truck, and it shuts down.
for awhile, I thought I was getting voltage drop and causing my alternator to run at full blast, and kicking out 16.5 volts at rpms. then I got the voltmeter out, and with key on, engine off, I had 12 volts everywhere--battery, voltage regulator, alternator, starter, etc. with the engine running, I had 14.5 volts everywhere...the autometer volt meter was just reading incorrectly.
**Photobucket sucks**
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Re: Battery disconect in the trunk
[Re: DANA60]
#935944
02/24/11 08:13 PM
02/24/11 08:13 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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Quote:
One last thing (maybe). If I am running the stock Chry. alt. and not the single pole (GM type), does that change anything?
Nope. all alternators have 1 "charge" line that comes off the back. the 2 field/voltage sensor wires on the chrysler alternator can remain as-is. right now your alternator, if wired stock, charges a large wire...I think the factory size is an 8 ga wire? that goes through the firewall, through the amp gauge, back through the firewall, and then to the starter relay, which then connects to the battery. you would simply take that wire, and instead of all that...run it straight back to the battery side of the kill switch. then put a voltmeter gauge in the dash in place of the amp gauge.
**Photobucket sucks**
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