Here ya go Dallas! A GENERAL guide.
Brad

An amazing amount of work in restoring a car as you already know. Your work looks great. My only concern for you is that the fenders and the tail light buckets were mounted with seam sealer before painting. Front fender seams oozed out and was painted. Rear buckets were mounted and the seam sealer that oozed out was wiped leaving a seam that also was painted. There isn't anyway to reproduce that look without painting after mounting.
Sorry to mention it but that the way they were done.

I recall restoring my first land cruiser. Wrong colors here and there, incorrect year pieces, etc.. It took me a good 2-3 cruisers to be able to restore them accurately. I am even working as we speak on a 1981 BJ42, which is a diesel 40 series. Never sold in the USA. So, I have to source parts from Canada primarily as well as Australia and New Zealand. Very difficult.

With that being said, I know that in many respects I am f'ing this RoadRunner up. However, I am fixing all of the bits mentioned the best I can. I'll never sell this car. Maybe even in 10-15 years I'll tear it down and do it again after I have learned more.

Sometimes I regret posting projects because the negative feedback outweighs the positive.

Anyhow, little by little I have removed the nuts holding the heater on as well as the wiper motor and they are now the requested anodized gold or whatever it was.

Same with the shock mount tower bushings, removed, repainted the well top, and installed a new bushing. I'll do the same with the clutch boot as well as the inner fender filler pieces up front.

Sorry this isn't concourse, but in my eyes it is, and I'm having fun.

-dallas

Judging by the wheels, the car's not going to be stock anyways...I think it looks fantastic and more importantly the project is actually moving in a forward direction...
If you hang around enough, you'll find guys on here that take years to do what you've accomplished in a short time..

You might get better response if you ask details about specific parts that you WANT to learn about, that way we won't be so rough on you for the other little nick-picking things

Oh no, I love learning, even the little nit-picky things. I enjoy that too. Next time around the sequence will be different and I have been taking notes and creating a scrapbook of all things correct.

I guess I just easily get deflated. Poor me sometimes, you know?

I am really excited to be moving forward and have a plan.

Wiring harness is supposed to show up either today or tomorrow.

Quote:

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I'm having fun.

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And THAT is all that matters. Don't let anybody rain on your parade. However, if you really do want to learn about restoring Mopars, I'd suggest spending some time looking around on Alan's website.

click here

I like the color!!

Car looks great and you're doing a fabulous job. I love the color; the wheels not so much, but they're easy to change!

I guess I'd say that posting resto pics on here isn't for the thin skinned! Make it known whether you want constructive criticism or not. Are your trying to make the car look semi correct and want advice or are you making a hotrod (which is fine) and prefer to do it your way.

Unless you are Dave W (ECS), then your resto is just like everyone else's: an attempt to replicate a factory look.......with the exception noted some get closer than others but ALL have some detail that is less than perfect so you certainly shouldn't get discouraged.

The pic someone posted previously is good info. If you are trying for a factory(ish) look, some of the common mistakes on I see on many cars are;

- trunk painted wrong (usually black or splatter paint ala GM)
- trunk and floor plugs not cut or installed
- black engine bays
- black hood hinges
- no wheel well undercoating
- body color inspection plates
- body colored upper control arm bolts/nuts/washers
- no rad support blackout
- painted or incorrectly finished hood and trunk latches and springs
- incorrect fasteners (lots of decent kits available to stop you from having to use hardware store variety bolts, screws, etc.)
- battery trays not painted body color
- master cylinders and/or boosters finished incorrectly
- ugly 3spd wiper motors.
- parts store rad cap
- gear hose clamps
- generic battery

....and of course many others but those ones stick out to me.

Good luck with the build and as I said; car looks fabulous. There is a link to my Superbee resto in my signature; take a look and feel free to critique away! There are some mistakes I made before I knew better and there are some purposely done for a variety of reasons.

Ultimately, there are lots of knowledgeable and helpful guys here, so when you want to know something, just ask.


Dave

Fellas,

Another update.

First, as you read in my post from earlier today I have been fixing and applying all of your recommendations that pertain to "correctness" and yes - I am trying to be correct, yet add a hot-rod flare.

I blacked out the radiator support.

I taped off and fixed the frame rails:







Next, I used this template to mask off my hood:



taped off (my buddy Clarence, who is helping me on the project):



I used OEM Organosol Black:





Also, let me know what you guys think on that ebay battery tray deal in my last post.

G'night

dallas

Looking good?

Question on the radiator support blackout.... are the ineer fender wells to be blacked out as well?

Really loving the colour.

go here i look roadrunner nest.com at the 71 gtx pics blackout behind the grill was replicated from what the cars original blackout looked like.

Its not all black, its the same way as my '71 GTX. I dont know about 1970, but mine is the exact same way before I painted it.

Finally Paint! (Updated 12/20/10) for the pics

Where did you get the orginsal paint?

As far as the hold down stuff it is correct but can't comment on price. Install battery tray and paint bolts and all. Not the battery holddown rods or nuts or top piece.

Good job.. Love the color and pictures of the sheetmetal repair..