Re: Race only water temps
[Re: emarine01]
#908240
01/19/11 12:46 PM
01/19/11 12:46 PM
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,238 North Cackilacky
sdaurity
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,238
North Cackilacky
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Quote:
Its a Morroso, the kind that replaces the factory pump, I don't run a thermostat so the water has no restriction, On a factory pump with a belt the pump volume is progressive with rpm, the electric pumps the same speed all the time, my heating problem is only the short blast @ wot, 50 degree rise fast, so my thought was not to slow down the flow?
If the water is moving too fast it can't absorb any heat, and could cause your problem. If the water is moving too slow/ not circulating well it can overheat the water in the heads and block, and cause your problem. Just brain storming.
One day I will have something cool here.
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Re: Race only water temps
[Re: sdaurity]
#908241
01/19/11 12:52 PM
01/19/11 12:52 PM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,752 detroit area
moderncylinder
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,752
detroit area
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when trying to just make a run,, stage at about 120 and it gets to 140-150 at the end of the run
trying to go fast,, westcott does this too,, stage at about 60-70,, end of run 90-100
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Re: Race only water temps
[Re: moderncylinder]
#908243
01/19/11 01:05 PM
01/19/11 01:05 PM
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,058 bigfork mn
dragram440
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,058
bigfork mn
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I usually try to do my burnout at about 160 but if its a hot day and I have to sit in the lanes for a hour or two starting it and shutting it off 10 times it might be at 180 maybe hit 190 on the run back down to 170-180 by the time I get back to the pits. Never seems to go over 180 idleing. This is about the norm isnt it?
67' charger 499 RB
10.57 at 127
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Re: Race only water temps
[Re: moderncylinder]
#908244
01/19/11 01:29 PM
01/19/11 01:29 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,695 nc
emarine01
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,695
nc
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My temp gauge starts @ 100 and we heat soak the engine for alum rods, seems I can get the oil hot then back down the water temp with the water pump and fan back to 100 pretty quick but it tends to leave kinda rough with the water temp that low, I have tried to leave @ 120 and it works, just not as good as 140, this is all @ 200ft track, I am thinking the 300ft deal is gonna push it over the boiling point under load, I am kinda weak on this subject cause all my experience is with marine diesels using heat exchangers, We have the whole ocean to remove heat, this fan and air flow thing is kinda tough to figure, my first instinct is bigger is better but space is a factor, I have been using 200 degrees as a safe limit for water temp, I don't know what the real safe limit for a race engine is? I have seen 230 a few times but not under load, long return lane with traffic & started to push water out the cap, I have been following most of the E85 posts and have been fence sitting for a year cause of the high humidity here on the coast and the water problems I have had with E10 in all the small engine stuff we have on the farm, seems I cant let anything sit for a week with E10 before it picks up water in the fuel, I am leaning toward fitting a 2 pass rad, any thought on this cause it will take a fair amount of fab work and i will have to lose the grill.
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Re: Race only water temps
[Re: emarine01]
#908247
01/19/11 11:56 PM
01/19/11 11:56 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,088 Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,088
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
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The "secret" isn't too big. Just get the motor temp up over 200 to 210 before shuting it off. If its' real milky, you might have to push that a bit. If you have leaned it out going too and from the line and during warm up, the heat in the motor can take care of any moisture or alky present.
8.582, 160.18 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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