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Re: To stroke or not to stroke (small block)
[Re: Dartman440]
#903843
01/15/11 12:50 PM
01/15/11 12:50 PM
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 299
East Brunswick, NJ
finadk
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 299
East Brunswick, NJ
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I Say stroke it but since it is a 340 car get a 340 block and stroke that. That solves any resale concerns. When i was putting my 360 based 408 together i went with eagle h beam rods. The overall cost was not much more than resizing and pressing the pistons on and off.
Scott
Scott
1956 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer (408 Stroker, 4 Wheel Disc Brakes, Rack & Pinion, 6 speed)
2002 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
1976 Corvette
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Re: To stroke or not to stroke (small block)
[Re: finadk]
#903844
01/15/11 01:32 PM
01/15/11 01:32 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,719
Space Station #5
471Magnum
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,719
Space Station #5
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Quote:
I Say stroke it but since it is a 340 car get a 340 block and stroke that. That solves any resale concerns. When i was putting my 360 based 408 together i went with eagle h beam rods. The overall cost was not much more than resizing and pressing the pistons on and off.
You're right about the cost of reconditioning old rods vs purchasing new. They'll get replaced with SCAT I-beams, either as part of a stroker kit, or purchased separately if I build a 340. Eagle SIR I-beam quality is sketchy at best. No way will a set of those be part of this project.
If I'm stroking, I'll use the 360. I'm not going to "waste" a hard to find standard bore 340 block on a stroker just for the sake of a casting number. Save it for someone wanting a 340.
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Re: To stroke or not to stroke (small block)
[Re: 471Magnum]
#903845
01/15/11 02:21 PM
01/15/11 02:21 PM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,489
St. Louis Mo.
10 o to go
"Happy Don"
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"Happy Don"
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,489
St. Louis Mo.
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When I built my 1st stroker .I used a cast crank kit 4" stroked 360 =410 CI mind you its in a drag car but it picked up average 5 tenths .
Don't mess with 30 40 year old rods, rod bolts pistons cranks .It would cost more .
Update to a kit and get the torque and Cubic inch .I ran 10.50s with steel J heads 2.02 valves and 540 lift cam .
Eventually had to go to a steel crank ,but lots of custom stuff now .
Good luck
DR
2009 418" build dan smith built
new 9.96 131.82
6.23 108
1.30 60 foot
best to date 9/15/09
8in 727 430 dana 2860 lb 3040 lb w driver
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Re: To stroke or not to stroke (small block)
[Re: thedriver]
#903849
01/18/11 10:56 AM
01/18/11 10:56 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,562
Brookeville, Md
Mr.Yuck
Not enough dumb comments...yet
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Not enough dumb comments...yet
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,562
Brookeville, Md
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Quote:
Quote:
Just made a move to open up my options a bit.
Posted my 360 block for sale and it sold within a couple of hours. That freed up a few bucks to in turn make an offer on the 340 block.
Now I've got the option of 340 or 416. I'll pop open the current motor to see what I've got to work with.
Like I stated before, I almost hate to "waste" a 340 block on a stroker motor, but I'll probably end up doing just that.
you wont be wastin anything on the 340 block by puttin in a 4.0 crank!
heck, thats like takin a flat chested supermodel out and buyin her some nice silicone!!
you'll never regret that bill! 
or he could just get a 440 and have the REAL thing... 
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Re: To stroke or not to stroke (small block)
[Re: thedriver]
#903851
01/18/11 12:34 PM
01/18/11 12:34 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,675
Columbia, CT
moper
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,675
Columbia, CT
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If it was me, I'd build a stroker for it. But it's you... SO I'd say just make a choice. It will cost more money, but honestly by staying with the factory look parts in terms of heads, intakes, and headers, it will never be a mad powerhouse. It will be a nice, driveable, torquey engine. More torque off idle than a 440, but it won't make poewr above about 5K without a lot of costly mods to the factory type parts. Milage will depend on the right convertor and a mild final gearing. If budget is an issue, then I'd build a nice 360 and leave it at that.
Well, art is art, isn't it? Still, on the other hand, water is water! And east is east and west is west and if you take cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than rhubarb does. Now, uh... Now you tell me what you know.
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Re: To stroke or not to stroke (small block)
[Re: 471Magnum]
#903853
01/18/11 03:31 PM
01/18/11 03:31 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,675
Columbia, CT
moper
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,675
Columbia, CT
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I disagree. in my world I need to have the pistons in hand to hone it and you need the stroke, rod, piston, gasket, and head chamber size in order to set the deck height. It all works together, or you start compromising the end result. You could start by doing the heads, but the lower end should wait until you have a plan.
Well, art is art, isn't it? Still, on the other hand, water is water! And east is east and west is west and if you take cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than rhubarb does. Now, uh... Now you tell me what you know.
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Re: To stroke or not to stroke (small block)
[Re: 471Magnum]
#903854
01/18/11 03:57 PM
01/18/11 03:57 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,689
W. Kentucky
justinp61
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,689
W. Kentucky
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Quote:
That and the bonus of having a date code correct block were the reasons for this move.
I don't get this "date code", I fully understand what it means in terms of the block. But, the numbers block is gone, so what difference does it make if the block has a early cast block or a late cast block? The numbers stamped on it are what matters, not the ones cast into it. To me the only value it adds over a 360 is the $2-300 it's worth over a good 360 block. Is this block the one with the broken ear?
The only machine work I'd do would be a rough bore, the rest would be done with parts in hand.
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Re: To stroke or not to stroke (small block)
[Re: justinp61]
#903855
01/18/11 06:22 PM
01/18/11 06:22 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,719
Space Station #5
471Magnum
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,719
Space Station #5
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The casting date isn't important to me (or you), but it might be to the next guy. I too am of the opinion that the s/n is the only number that really matters, but a lot of other folks value having a "correct" casting date even without the s/n.
The NOM 340 currently in the car is the one with the broken ear. It too has late casting date that would be correct for the broadcast date.
Yes. Rough bore, square deck and line hone only. Save the final hone once I've got the pistons. Heads will almost certainly be reusing the open chamber J-heads on the current motor. I will target a deck height for decent quench once I can upgrade to some close chambered heads.
-Jim
I can fix it... my old man is a television repairman.
He's got the ultimate set of tools... I can fix it.
Currently Mopar-less
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Re: To stroke or not to stroke (small block)
[Re: 471Magnum]
#903856
01/18/11 06:34 PM
01/18/11 06:34 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,445
N.Wilkesboro,NC
DusterKrazy
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,445
N.Wilkesboro,NC
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To many people here care about having that magical "340" number. If the thing makes power, who cares what size engine it is?? Bang for the buck, the 360 based stroker is the way to go. $300+ for a block to me just does not make sense. Spend what you save over buying a 340 on hop up parts or machine work 
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Re: To stroke or not to stroke (small block)
[Re: 69Cuda340S]
#903858
01/22/11 12:46 PM
01/22/11 12:46 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,719
Space Station #5
471Magnum
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,719
Space Station #5
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I'll probably spring for forged pistons. I don't see it documented in their literature, but I think the Scat kits use KB/Icon pistons. I would definitely have my local shop do the balancing.
Better deals can be had on Ebay than Summit currently.
I could go with an Eagle kit and get a smoking deal through Amazon.com, but my preference is definitely for a Scat crank and rods.
-Jim
I can fix it... my old man is a television repairman.
He's got the ultimate set of tools... I can fix it.
Currently Mopar-less
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Re: To stroke or not to stroke (small block)
[Re: 471Magnum]
#903859
01/22/11 10:13 PM
01/22/11 10:13 PM
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 125
kalispell montana
jwilson 61
member
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member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 125
kalispell montana
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I've seen 3 stroker small blocks with broken eagle cranks never a scat. How is the little new Bossman doing??  I'm getting close to having the cuda going, its been a project for sure!!!
70 cuda 440 6bbl Auto with a dana 60
68 road runner QQ1 383 auto
1970 6 barrel 4 speed Superbird FY1 number matching
15 Challenger 6.4 SRT pearl White 6 Speed
72 Cuda 440 5 speed
71 Road Runner 440 4 speed
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Re: To stroke or not to stroke (small block)
[Re: Mr.Yuck]
#903861
02/13/11 08:13 PM
02/13/11 08:13 PM
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,906
IL, Aurora
ademon
master
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master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,906
IL, Aurora
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Just made a move to open up my options a bit.
Posted my 360 block for sale and it sold within a couple of hours. That freed up a few bucks to in turn make an offer on the 340 block.
Now I've got the option of 340 or 416. I'll pop open the current motor to see what I've got to work with.
Like I stated before, I almost hate to "waste" a 340 block on a stroker motor, but I'll probably end up doing just that.
you wont be wastin anything on the 340 block by puttin in a 4.0 crank!
heck, thats like takin a flat chested supermodel out and buyin her some nice silicone!!
you'll never regret that bill!
or he could just get a 440 and have the REAL thing...
Are standard 440 blocks free? they seem high here in Chicago if you can find a standard bore block.
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