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Re: building back half car [Re: Chargerfan68] #903250
02/05/11 02:11 AM
02/05/11 02:11 AM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257
gulfport, ms, west mi
rowin4 Offline
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I believe your frame connectors should come straight back from the front frame/ crossmember to the 4 link crossmember that is tied into the body rocker panels that should be there.


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Re: building back half car [Re: rowin4] #903251
02/05/11 02:17 AM
02/05/11 02:17 AM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,264
New York, USA
Chargerfan68 Offline OP
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Quote:

I believe your frame connectors should come straight back from the front frame/ crossmember to the 4 link crossmember that is tied into the body rocker panels that should be there.




Yes, but the problem is it should be tied into the rear x-member right where the rear frame rails kick down...and that is only 26" wide. That brings me right into the torsion bar mounts if I go straight up front with them. If I kick them out wider in the front, I can't remove the torsion bars. And if I mount them at the rear wider so they are straight, I am sacrificing alot of support for the 4 link area which takes all of the power through that area.


1.50 60Ft. , 10.75@ 127MPH Hauling 3900 LBS.
Re: building back half car [Re: Chargerfan68] #903252
02/05/11 02:33 AM
02/05/11 02:33 AM
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Posts: 1,264
New York, USA
Chargerfan68 Offline OP
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I just ran across some pictures of a '63 with a 4 link backhalf. The frame connectors were put in wider and straight as suggested above and then a triangular boxed support was welded in to the 4 link bracket location.

This is what I will do. Any problems forseen doing it this way??

Thanks,
Greg.


1.50 60Ft. , 10.75@ 127MPH Hauling 3900 LBS.
Re: building back half car [Re: Chargerfan68] #903253
02/05/11 03:01 AM
02/05/11 03:01 AM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257
gulfport, ms, west mi
rowin4 Offline
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The rear frame rails come forwards and down to the 4 link cross member at your determined width { 26" ] , the brackets for the 4 link are welded to the frame rails/crossmember, the forward frame rails can be welded anywhere on that crossmember and do not have to be inline with the 4 link. You still have to anchor the 4 link crossmember to the body. When I back halfed mine, I welded short 2x3 tubing to the remaining spring frame location and inside rocker area , then welded the rear frame rails to that. My frame connectors are welded into my original frame ,a short piece , which remained, my ladder bar crossmember is welded to my frame connectors which comes straight back from the front frame.


it's ok to butt heads, just don't do it with a butthead
Re: building back half car [Re: rowin4] #903254
02/05/11 08:36 AM
02/05/11 08:36 AM
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 976
Woodstock , Georgia
Mopar_racer_99 Offline
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On our 68 charger we orginally had the bars going to outside of the torsion bars to allow removal. Once we went with a strut we had to anglecut the front snot to fit against the connectors. John


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Re: building back half car [Re: Mopar_racer_99] #903255
02/05/11 12:56 PM
02/05/11 12:56 PM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,466
malvern, ohio
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3ddart Offline
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informational purposes only! here are some pages out ot a "high performance mopar" mag about back-halfing a 2nd gen cuda. only reason i posted is because they angled the frame connecters on this project. dave

Re: building back half car [Re: 3ddart] #903256
02/05/11 12:58 PM
02/05/11 12:58 PM
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malvern, ohio
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Re: building back half car [Re: 3ddart] #903257
02/05/11 01:00 PM
02/05/11 01:00 PM
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malvern, ohio
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Re: building back half car [Re: Chargerfan68] #903258
02/05/11 02:50 PM
02/05/11 02:50 PM
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Phoenix, AZ
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Quote:

Hey guys,

Well I am getting close to installing the back half kit. It is arriving tomorrow and I am finishing up the repair and reinforcement of the rocker area. This is after cutting the back of the car off and removing the rusted and damaged rocker area.


Thanks for any input,
Greg.




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Re: building back half car [Re: MoparBilly] #903259
02/05/11 05:08 PM
02/05/11 05:08 PM
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Michigan
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Super Scamp Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

Hey guys,

Well I am getting close to installing the back half kit. It is arriving tomorrow and I am finishing up the repair and reinforcement of the rocker area. This is after cutting the back of the car off and removing the rusted and damaged rocker area.


Thanks for any input,
Greg.




OH, DEAR, Lord help us!!! You are a far, far braver man than I am!!!




Measure Twice then cut Three times Are you c/m cage?

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Re: building back half car [Re: Chargerfan68] #903260
02/05/11 05:51 PM
02/05/11 05:51 PM
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Posts: 6,840
The Swamp
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Quote:

Hey guys,

Well I am getting close to installing the back half kit. It is arriving tomorrow and I am finishing up the repair and reinforcement of the rocker area. This is after cutting the back of the car off and removing the rusted and damaged rocker area.




Now, a few more questions. I went with the Chris Alston ChassisWorks Eliminator II 4 link setup. When I looked at the specs, I was surprised to see that it is designed to set the rockers at 6" off the ground. Is this correct?? It just seems so low and the front of the car at the rockers is about 8" with the drag torsion bars . I have them cranked up pretty high for some built in stored energy and the front control arm (lower) are still just touching the bump stops. I can't really set the front any lower.

At 6 " up front, the header pipes would almost be scraping the floor.

So the first question again is : is this right based on your experience with this particular kit?

If this is not right and potentially a problem, I was thinking of cutting the front section of framerail at the downleg of the rail 2 ", which would raise the car height 2" , giving me rockers at 8". If I do this, I know the 4 link brackets would hang down 2 " lower, and I would reinforce the front area of the brackets back into the frame connector area , and get shock/spring height 2" longer to make up for the height change. This would leave the bracket geometry the same as before and just be lifting the car up 2".

Is this correct and do you see any problems with this?

Thanks for any input,
Greg.




Do you plan on getting the rear quarters, tail panel and such mounted before handing the rear frame rails? IMO that stuff needs to all be in place so the rear end and wheels can be correctly located. Need reference points to work from...not to mention something to plumb and square things to. Me, I would have left that stuff in place, cut the floor out only, hung the frame rails to the rear bumper support, then thought about changing quarters, sheet metal, etc.

Re: building back half car [Re: Sixpak] #903261
02/05/11 07:38 PM
02/05/11 07:38 PM

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No kit, everything home made except part of the cage. I had my tires an rims for the mock up so I could set ride height. Ladder bar car but same process. Centered my pinion as well. Good luck with your project.


Re: building back half car [Re: Sixpak] #903262
02/06/11 02:49 AM
02/06/11 02:49 AM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,264
New York, USA
Chargerfan68 Offline OP
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Thanks for all the reference materials and info guys...I appreciate all of it.

I do have all the sheetmetal and it will be in place (mocked up) when I fit the frame rails in. I also have very careful measurments marked on the floor of all the relevant points. My goal is to go slow and very accurate.

I am just finishing the rebuilding of the rear portion of the rockers and I went with 16 ga which is thicker than the factory. I am also using 1/8" plates at all the crossmember locations to add strength.

It was far easier to cut off the entire clip than remove the trunk and frame rails without the qtrs.

I will post more pictures as soon as I can upload them on here (probably tomorrow eve.)

Greg.


1.50 60Ft. , 10.75@ 127MPH Hauling 3900 LBS.
Re: building back half car [Re: Chargerfan68] #903263
02/06/11 03:56 AM
02/06/11 03:56 AM
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,165
Central Ohio, USA
Bigbeep Offline
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Quote:

I just ran across some pictures of a '63 with a 4 link backhalf. The frame connectors were put in wider and straight as suggested above and then a triangular boxed support was welded in to the 4 link bracket location.

This is what I will do. Any problems forseen doing it this way??

Thanks,
Greg.




That is exactly what I was going to suggest. Beep

Re: building back half car [Re: ] #903264
02/06/11 09:03 PM
02/06/11 09:03 PM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,264
New York, USA
Chargerfan68 Offline OP
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Quote:

No kit, everything home made except part of the cage. I had my tires an rims for the mock up so I could set ride height. Ladder bar car but same process. Centered my pinion as well. Good luck with your project.






Very nice work there!! Wow, that is a tight radius bend on the crossmember. Nice.

Thanks for sharing.

Greg.


1.50 60Ft. , 10.75@ 127MPH Hauling 3900 LBS.
Re: building back half car [Re: Chargerfan68] #903265
02/07/11 01:33 AM
02/07/11 01:33 AM
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 415
Peru
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I'm doing a full frame for a customer and I'm using a suzuki swift front end with a little bit of modification, so far so good

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Re: building back half car [Re: cbarracuda] #903266
02/08/11 01:36 AM
02/08/11 01:36 AM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,264
New York, USA
Chargerfan68 Offline OP
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Nice work Cbarra. Looks great so far.

I just finished repairing and reinforcing the rear part of the rockers and I am ready to start working on the front crossmember for the 4link.




I am planning on using some 1/8" plates to weld to my new rocker area and then weld the xmember to those plates. Any problem with certification if I just use maybe a 4X6 plate instead of a 6X6 contours to the rocker? It would be easier to just use a flat plate and it is still (I think) above what is required...which is to just weld the xmember to the rocker directly.

Also, do you guys with b-bodies and a 4link have to remove the entire package tray, or can I remove the reinforcement that hangs underneath and just trim arount the cage bars. In other words, do the rails clear the upper part of the tray??

Any constuctive criticism is fully welcome as this is my first backhalf build and I am trying to gain as much knowledge as I can.


Thanks, and I will post more pics as the progress happens in the next few days. I am slower than most you guys...just taking my time and going real slow.

Thanks,
Greg.

Last edited by Chargerfan68; 02/08/11 01:44 AM.

1.50 60Ft. , 10.75@ 127MPH Hauling 3900 LBS.
Re: building back half car [Re: Chargerfan68] #903267
02/08/11 02:33 AM
02/08/11 02:33 AM

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I made the plates so they sat on top of the rocker and came down the face of the rocker in an L shape and welded all around. i used 1/8" ( 10Ga ) plate.

Re: building back half car [Re: ] #903268
02/08/11 01:59 PM
02/08/11 01:59 PM
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New Jersey
Craig Offline
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New Jersey
The "L" like superfreak said sounds like a great idea. The rulebook doesn't even call for a plate there but its a good idea. I used about a 3x5, 1/8" thick. I welded my plate all around to the rocker metal, but some folks have told me it would have been better to do some 1" stitches instead due to the thin rocker metal. I don't know if that's better but it would be nice to know!

Also, I have that same Alston E-II crossmember, and on mine, I found the driveshaft rubbed the bottom of the loop at some combinations of ride height, 4-link setting, and pinion angle setting. I can work around it, but it seems the loop is mounted higher than it should be. There's not much leeway in setting the crossmember height since it has to match the rockers, but you should mock up your axle height to make sure the driveshaft will clear thru suspension travel. I'll attach a pic of my crossmember being fitted.


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Re: building back half car [Re: Craig] #903269
02/08/11 08:17 PM
02/08/11 08:17 PM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,264
New York, USA
Chargerfan68 Offline OP
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Thanks for the info and the warning on the loop, Craig. I will mock it up before I weld it in.

Another question comes up now: The 4link bracket spacers that you have to cut and weld the brackets together with are CM. The brackets themselves are mild steel, so do they DEFINITELY Have to be Tig welded together. Doesn't make sense to me that the frame and brackets are Mig welded in, and then someone would have to find someone to just weld those spacers in. At least the tubes you can take with you to a shop.

I can't tig yet

What's your experiences with this??

Greg.


1.50 60Ft. , 10.75@ 127MPH Hauling 3900 LBS.
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