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Re: Rebuilding an TF-727 [Re: bb74swngr] #895730
01/04/11 08:44 PM
01/04/11 08:44 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 27,347
Today? Who Knows?
1_WILD_RT Offline
Management Trainee
1_WILD_RT  Offline
Management Trainee

Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 27,347
Today? Who Knows?
Quote:

It's been a few years since I did a rebuild and have only done a few. It seems to me that all of the pumps I pulled had additional threaded holes that I screwed bolts into to "push" the pump out. Removed all of the bolts holding the pump in and then threaded/ran the bolts in to remove the pump. Didn't need a slide puller.
Russ...




Those threaded holes are intended for using a slide hammer... It you thread bolts in to force the pump out your pushing against the bolt hole in the case that secures the pump to the case & you risk damaging the threads in the aluminum case... I've seen guys do it & get away with it but I've also seen guys have to heli-coil what was a good case...


"The Armies of our ancestors were lucky, in that they were not trailed by a second army of pencil pushers."
Re: Rebuilding an TF-727 [Re: 1_WILD_RT] #895731
01/06/11 06:25 PM
01/06/11 06:25 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee Offline OP
I Live Here
Big Bad Bee  Offline OP
I Live Here

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Outstanding stuff. I'll build a little platform for my bench with hole in it. You guys are great. I've got to hit up Bob for a picture of that wheel borrow... That's a hoot.


I’m listening.
Re: Rebuilding an TF-727 [Re: Big Bad Bee] #895732
01/06/11 08:05 PM
01/06/11 08:05 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
RobX4406 Offline
I Live Here
RobX4406  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
You don't need a slide hammer, nor do you need to thread bolts against the machined surface to remove the pump.

The video from "technical videos" by Paul Zank has a really good deal on removing the pump.

Re: Rebuilding an TF-727 [Re: RobX4406] #895733
01/07/11 12:31 AM
01/07/11 12:31 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,177
People's Republic of Kali
70runner Offline
super stock
70runner  Offline
super stock

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,177
People's Republic of Kali
I rebuilt my first one recently, dry just to learn and check tolerances. Added shift kit and 4 pinion planet. Pretty straightforward. Between the FSM and Monroe book, you should be covered.

Re: Rebuilding an TF-727 [Re: Big Bad Bee] #895734
01/07/11 04:50 AM
01/07/11 04:50 AM
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar Offline
master
451Mopar  Offline
master

Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
They are not too difficult, but there are several "tricks" and special tools that make it easier.
Usually doing a refresh, if the trans is in decent shape, the clearances should come out correct. If you start swaping major components, and adding a bunch of HP parts you may need various thickness snap rings and bushings to set the clearances correctly. If you have never rebuilt one before, take some pictures when disassembling the transmission, and some close up photos of how the over-running clutch rollers and springs are assembled. It is easy to install the springs wrong, and most manuals don't show/explain the correct way to install them. The servos can also be a bear to install.
When doing the valve body, set the selector detent ball and spring apart from the rest of the valve body so you don't confuse those parts with the balls and springs inside the valve body.
You will need a bushing driver to replace worn bushings. Before I bought a driver, I just took the parts to a trans shop and had them do it. usually the torque converter hub bushing in the pump and the output shaft bushing in the tail shaft need replacing. Also sometimes the front drum bushing.
You need to compress the front drum spring retainer to replace the seals for the front clutch piston. I made my own tool to do this, but I have also done it using two large C-clamps and a flat peice of plywood under the drum. You should be able to compress the rear servo by hand, but need the large C-clamp to compress the front servo.
As mentioned, removing the front pump, screw in some long 3/8" bolts with large washers into the two threaded pump holes, the slide the "U" shaped part of a prybar along the bolt hitting the washer like a slide hammer. There are other ways to get the pump out, but that is what I use.
For assembly, get some long 5/16" bolts and cut the heads off so you can align the pump and gasket up when reinstalling the pump. This is easiest if the trans is held so the pump is straight up, with the tailshaft pointing down. If you don't have trans assembly lube, vasoline works OK.

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