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Re: 318 timing sprocket marks
[Re: jsswope67]
#886249
05/10/12 03:00 PM
05/10/12 03:00 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,420
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JohnRR
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Quote:
Ok, #1 wire is on the tower just before the front clip going clockwise and the zero mark on the timing cover is showing 15BTDC with a timing light. Started up fine, it's a little cooler outside today about 56 degrees, idles, even backed it up a few feet. I know if I try and drive it, it will ping lose power and bog down. 
Roll the intial back to 5 degrees and readjust the idle 700-800 rpm, recheck intial. A 1.5 year old , assuming it's brand new and not 20 yr old stock, will have the adjustable mechanical advance but from the factory it comes set at max which I am pretty sure is 28 degrees.
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Re: 318 timing sprocket marks
[Re: JohnRR]
#886250
05/10/12 03:54 PM
05/10/12 03:54 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
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Marysville, O-H-I-O
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whew....maybe it's time to start all over with the timing! just to eliminate any issues with it.
remove the driver side valve cover. rotate the engine by hand, watch for the #1 intake valve to open, then close, then continue to turn the crank until the timing mark on the dampner is at the 0 degrees TDC mark on the timing cover. this may be off a degree or 2 if the dampner has slipped at all, or due to factory tolerances in the timing cover assembly, but it'll be close enough. Now, drop in the distributor so that the rotor is pointing towards the number 1 plug tower on the cap, twisting the distributor as needed to make it line up. you now have located #1. now, going clockwise on the distributor cap, install the rest of the plug wires, 8 would be next, continue on down the firing order till you finish with #2.
then start it, and set your timing with the light, which should be clipped to the #1 plug wire.
after that, start chasing carb settings to track down the overheating issue.
**Photobucket sucks**
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Re: 318 timing sprocket marks
[Re: 70Cuda383]
#886251
05/10/12 09:28 PM
05/10/12 09:28 PM
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 27
PA
jsswope67
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phew is right... Know how many times I have done that? Enough to use 3 tubes of high temp sealant on the valve cover, only to find one more thing I missed. What about the reluctor lining up with the tip on the dist gap? Do I need to change the dist gap or adjustment? Once I was told before to have the slot on top of the oil pump gear in line with the crankshaft, I think I have the timing close now, it was around 12, just tried another carb, 3rd one, it over flowed in the piston assembly vent compartment, pulled of the top, lost the float pin and it became too dark, screw it til tomorrow, the 2 BBL BDD carter is easy to rebuild, just a pain of all the pieces, should get a 650 carb and alum intake and be done with it, it runs again it may never come apart again. Run it til it dies, want to restore but getting resentful towards it, btw I did move #1 cylinder plug wire to the CC tower marked #1 on the dist cap, seemed to run a little better. Took vacc hose off dist and revved it plugged; timing mark never moved. NAPA for all parts from now on, sorry Advance and Auto Zone, your parts suck! Would like to replace the ignition harnesses from the firewall out if I can find a new one reasonable.
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Re: 318 timing sprocket marks
[Re: 70Cuda383]
#886252
05/14/12 04:25 PM
05/14/12 04:25 PM
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 27
PA
jsswope67
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Got the third carb on, after freeing it up and building the top part and cleaning it,resolves some of the carb probs, idles runs smoother was loading up didn't drive it, pulled the drivers valve cover, I forget the first valve is exhaust? With the solid mark on zero and the rotor button pointing towards firewall I hand turn it back to the solid mark again COUNTERCLOCKWISE, half turn on the dist )(FULL CC TURN ON THE CRANK BY HAND) and the rotor button points out front, (Note I am turning CC cause its easier from my vantage point and to watch the valves, on this first rotation the first valve opens, I stop to line up then turn by hand again so rotor button points to firewall, full turn half on the dist, valve #2 on cylinder 1 never moves, its either stuck or cam is worn??? I pulled all the plugs and cylinder #4 had lots of soot, so it is time to take the heads of and look for worn or stuck valves? Oh and drivers side valve cover had some pasty white milk on the top inside of it, not a ton but some. A bit on the inside top facing firewall. in the rain
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Re: 318 timing sprocket marks
[Re: jsswope67]
#886255
05/15/12 09:30 AM
05/15/12 09:30 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,420
A gulag near you.
JohnRR
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
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Quote:
Cylinder #1 intake valve is def not moving,
'77 Chrysler small block 318
Left side valves are #1 EI #3-EI #5-EI 7-#EI
Right side valves are #2-IE #4-IE #6-IE #8-IE
Automatic trans calls for 8 degrees top dead center Specs from 1979 Edition of Peterson's Big Book of Auto Repair-
May pull cover and check right side
#1 exhaust valve opens on exhaust but not intake
Have you checked for a loose rocker arm on #1 intake ?
also your valve layout above is wrong unless you have a smallblock ford .. i think that is the SBF layout.
Mopar both big and small block , not the hemi have paired intakes and exh.
E II EE II E
Sounds like you have a flat cam lobe or the pushrod is so bent that it's not moving the valve.
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Re: 318 timing sprocket marks
[Re: JohnRR]
#886256
05/15/12 02:51 PM
05/15/12 02:51 PM
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 27
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jsswope67
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Posts: 27
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Going to recheck it for movement, in a bit. If I remember correct the pushrod was a bit tight, it did move a few months ago. I believe cylinders 3 and 4 had the most soot on the spark plugs if thats another clue. You're correct on the sequence except for my engine 318 340, 360, 383, 400, 426, and 440 the sequence you sent 318 is EI EI EI EI for left side then IE IE IE IE for right side
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Re: 318 timing sprocket marks
[Re: jsswope67]
#886257
05/15/12 04:59 PM
05/15/12 04:59 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,420
A gulag near you.
JohnRR
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
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Quote:
Going to recheck it for movement, in a bit. If I remember correct the pushrod was a bit tight, it did move a few months ago. I believe cylinders 3 and 4 had the most soot on the spark plugs if thats another clue.
You're correct on the sequence except for my engine 318
340, 360, 383, 400, 426, and 440 the sequence you sent
318 is EI EI EI EI for left side
then IE IE IE IE for right side
That is impossible unless you have a poly head 318 ???
The heads for the 340/360 can be bolted onto a 318, the manifolds sold to fit LA engines all fit 318's and 340/360's .
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Re: 318 timing sprocket marks
[Re: JohnRR]
#886258
05/15/12 05:07 PM
05/15/12 05:07 PM
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 27
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jsswope67
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I'm taking that info out of the 1979 Peterson Book for the sequence unless its a misprint. I'l like to find a set of 360 heads if you know of any. Not familiar with a poly head, how do I tell?
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Re: 318 timing sprocket marks
[Re: jsswope67]
#886259
05/15/12 05:13 PM
05/15/12 05:13 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,420
A gulag near you.
JohnRR
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,420
A gulag near you.
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Quote:
I'm taking that info out of the 1979 Peterson Book for the sequence unless its a misprint.
I'l like to find a set of 360 heads if you know of any.
Not familiar with a poly head, how do I tell?
It's a misprint .
Poly head is completely different.
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